I use the Sika primer, as it is “highly recommended” to ensure a good seal. Yes, it’s expensive, but I hate doing a job twice. A bottle of primer goes a long way. Sika recommends that the edges of the window be painted over where the sealant is used. This is because exposure to light degrades the adhesive. I’m assuming this would be UV exposure. To date, I have not done this and have had zero problems. It could cause premature failure of the seal in the long term though.
I use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to rough up the edges of the windows before installing them. I give the material some tooth, then wipe it down with alcohol to remove any contamination. Don’t be afraid to grind into the plexi to get a good surface for the adhesive. It won’t show from the outside. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” C&C 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of prf680 via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:51 AM To: 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 C&C30 MK1 I have no idea what hardness neoprene one would use ... and best adhesive to fix it in place. Atkins & Hoyle website says 'high density, soft durometer' I suppose one of us should get off their duffs and call A&H or Hammerhead. On another note, I notice that the Sika 295UV instructions call for 'Sika UV Shielding Tape' overlapping the edge of the window and the adhesive joint itself, onto the cabinside? Has anyone actually seen that or used it themselves? I couldn't find any reference to availability in North America either ... even absent from Sika's Canadian website. I also don't see reference on many of the 'how-to' sites to abrading the edges of the acrylic sheet and the fiberglass frame area prior to install. More discuss use of primer ... but not all state what they are using.
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