I had occasional issues with my engine not starting, so I added a “solenoid solenoid”. I bought one of these (http://www.amazon.com/STARTER-SLAVE-SOLENOID-GLM-Number/dp/B004AR1F4E/ref=cm_cr-mr-title) and the starter button activates that solenoid which activates the bigger starter solenoid. Been working great for 3 years now. I learned this trick with my old Porsche after the 12th time I had to climb under it and short the starter connections.
Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 10:01 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring Your math is correct, and the high current through the glow plugs (and the fuel lift pump) accounts for the fact that the system voltage drops to 11.5-12.0v when the glow plug button is pressed. But I just looked at the manual for my M35B and the glow plug button does not provide current for the glow plugs or the fuel pump. It provides current to close a solenoid that connects the glow plugs and the fuel pump to the battery. So the high current flow is ultimately from B+, and the current flow through the glow plug button only needs to be a faction of an amp. I don’t recall David saying that the engine did not start or the starter did not engage. Rather he indicated that the engine panel was wired differently than the manufacturer’s wiring diagram and the starting procedure was different than the procedure spelled out in the owner’s manual for the engine. If the starter engages when the button is pushed, then there is demonstrably enough voltage and resulting current flow to close the solenoid (which should take well under an amp). When the starter solenoid is closed, that creates an almost dead short on the high current side from the battery (via the big red battery cable connected to the starter) to ground through the starter coil, and there will be 175 to 250 amps of current flowing through the starter. The resulting magnetic field creates enough torque and rotation speed to start the engine. On my boat, with a 4 cylinder M35B, the system voltage drops below 10.5 volts when the starter is engaged. As a matter of fact, if I restart the engine after the chart plotter has been turned on, the chart plotter will shut down due to the low voltage and will need to be restarted. (I swear every time that happens.) It occurs to me that the fact that the system voltage drops to around 10v when the starter is turning could be a contributing reason that David only measured 8v from the solenoid connection to ground when he pushed the starter button. If the starter does engage, then I stand by my diagnosis that there is nothing amiss with solenoid or starter, and that it would be best to restore the panel wiring to the way it left the factory. BTW, Mainecruising is right is saying the panel is the choke point for current supply. All of the current to power the solenoid that connects the battery to the glow plugs and fuel pump, the starter solenoid, and the instruments comes through the key switch. Of course the panel and wiring is designed for the current flow expected. And, of course, the panel on a Yanmar is also the choke point for current to the idiot lights, alarms, and the starter solenoid as well.
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