Knurling is the process by which texture is given to metal. Usually metal handles of wrenches and hammers or other tools will be knurled with a cross-hatched pattern. There are lots of options and harshnesses which can be chosen by the machinist.
I'm not particularly familiar with the best line for friction but I would start with something cheap like stay-set. With a little work you can probably bury the end nearest the clew. I probably wouldn't sleeve the whole line since it seems you'd loose some or all of the advantage of the new high-tech line. Since the sleeve and original jib sheet will have different elasticities I would consider allowing the sheet to "float" at the tailing end...just a thought. The machine shop I use is in Lusby, MD and right around the corner from my house. The guy is extremely knowledgeable and runs a great business out of his garage. He calls the place "Machine Shop". His name is Harry Langly an goes by HL. Email him at marsurl...@comcast.net or call at (410) 326-2001. Email might be better since he had an accident years ago that affects his voice. Josh On Oct 5, 2015 10:30 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Josh- great info! > On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > David, > > The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap > screw. You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with > tef-gel, or anti-seeze. If they get stuck they break. If they are over > torqued they break. If they are not fully tightened or the springs are old > or the line is too small of a diameter then line won't stay in. > > As long a the above three conditions are met then the problem you are > having is with the friction on the drum. It sounds like those three > conditions are met since you only experienced this problem in heavy winds. > As mentioned extra wraps should help add friction. Additionally a machine > shop can re-knurl the drum. You can also add a sleeve to the jib sheet. > If you have the crew to do so, try having them not use the self-tailer to > winch in on the tacks. See how much pressure the tailer needs to apply > before the winch slips. The tailer should only have to apply moderate > tension. If they are really pulling you need another wrap (or 2). If you > have 4 or 5 wraps and the winch still slips then you need more friction. > Sleeving the sheet is probably a little cheaper and will make the line > better on the hand. You can also do it yourself. If you still find that > it takes 4 or more wraps I would start looking for a machine shop. I have > one in mind if you are interested. > > We had 4 wraps on the drum so I am thinking friction on the drum. I don’t > know what re-knurling means and don’t know if any shop would know how to do > this. Also, I have not found a good machine shop in my area. What shop did > you have in mind? What would you sleeve the sheet with? Dave > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > _______________________________________________ > > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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