FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my Interprotect. 
I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on the instructions. 
No problems after 8 years. No problem getting paint to stick to later 
interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor thruhulls and 
Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting. I did wipe the 
Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit. I think they recommended 
216. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 



Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the 
first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it bonds 
with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially cured 
material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a knuckle print 
but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first coat. If I recall, 
it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently. 



Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect. 



Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad Pro. 
After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No problems in 
the last 6 or 7 years. 



I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that is 
what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told is is 
because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also been 
told that the UV is a contributing factor. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham 
Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 




First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the 
interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly. I've overcoated 
Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results. 




Graham Collins 
Secret Plans 
C&C 35-III #11 


On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: 





Brent, 


That's weird. I'm taking a quess. Maybe there was some sanding dust on the hull 
after sanding? Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, before 
painting? Is it peeled off or worn off. Got any pictures? 








Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 



----- Original Message -----



From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Brent Driedger" <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca> 
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM 
Subject: Stus-List VC17 





Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. 
I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise 
that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull 
within 6 inches of the waterline. 
I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital 
sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and 
roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions 
but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's 
frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who 
clean their hulls every couple of weeks. 
Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra 
mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about 
a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 
6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. 





Brent Driedger 
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg. 





Sent from my iPhone 
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