Hi Josh,
I have been thinking the same thing. So far (only removed one window)
the damage has been contained under the glazing.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 10:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the
> damage extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing. I'd
> just use silica filled epoxy. Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and
> then maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull. The typical 80 grit
> might be a little much but just remove the shine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yup, you will! The question is, what is the best way to repair the
>> gelcoat. I have glass mat showing in places. Do I apply epoxy or
>> polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area? What
>> do I fill it with? Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin? help!!!
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
>>> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
>>> try.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
>>>> windows....it sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
>>>> UV .....if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
>>>> I will use this tape method.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>>>>
>>>> Rob Abbott
>>>> AZURA
>>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>>
>>>> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>
>>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>>>> method. See link below:
>>>>
>>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>>>
>>>> Gary
>>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
>>>> robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Gary:
>>>>>
>>>>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>>>>
>>>>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.....not exactly sure
>>>>> how much but it is noticeable.....you can get a better idea when you take
>>>>> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface. I used Sika 295 UV
>>>>> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
>>>>> curved window(s) in place. It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to
>>>>> 'brace them' while the Sika cured. I explained all of that in my 'off
>>>>> list' email to you. Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rob Abbott
>>>>> AZURA
>>>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Fred,
>>>>> The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>>>>> look like and attractive method. I am replacing the windows over the
>>>>> winter, also. We should keep in touch. Do I assume you would use the
>>>>> gray
>>>>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant? I am wondering if the VHB tape
>>>>> will be a problem with peel. My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>>>>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin. I
>>>>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>>>> return to a flat shape?
>>>>>
>>>>> Gary
>>>>>
>>>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over
>>>>>> the winter. I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this
>>>>>> time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did
>>>>>> on
>>>>>> Johanna Rose:
>>>>>> <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts>
>>>>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> — Fred
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
>>>>>> WI :^(
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Paul,
>>>>>> I agree that 1/4" is too thin. The other 37+ at my club has
>>>>>> 5/16" It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would
>>>>>> change the design. I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic. But then again...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
>>>>>> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic). You are probably
>>>>>> trading
>>>>>> one problem for another.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn. The write-up in
>>>>>> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if)
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> bond thickness is large enough. To that end he added glass beads to the
>>>>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thoughts, anyone?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Gary
>>>>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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