Most paints and barrier coats call for 80 grit random orbital to get the right tooth. This is as much for your satisfaction as it is for the manufacturer's guarantee. That doesn't mean that the paint won't stick if you don't do this. I'm confident that the engineers at the paint lab don't perform a numerous paint adherence experiments with each of their products to determine all of the possible ways a customer could improperly apply their product.
This is also the time to discuss a barrier coat if it hasn't been already. As already shared here before, IMO if the bottom isn't blistering after 30 years without a barrier coat then you may simply be spending money which doesn't need spent. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 23, 2015 8:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello guys, > > I just heard from the yard. they walnut strip the bottom. He told me it > was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you very > much!)! he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the > hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut > blasting. I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand > the gelcoat to get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has > something to stick to. > > He said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds > maybe 2 man days to the labor. > > Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic? I mean if they > say it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had not been > done, why would the bottom paint not have failed? > > > Danny > T40 > Rum Runner IV > Mattapoisett, MA > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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