It's a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc. On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> That socket trick is slick. Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly > cheap. It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to > fit inside the valve and capture the two tits inside. Another trick it to > slide the handle of a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold > that with another wrench. During removal, you are not turning this till > the inside flange is removed, but simply backing it up. During install, > you hold the outside part while tightening the inside flange. > > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>> > *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');> > *Cc: *"Antoine Rose" <antoine.r...@videotron.ca > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','antoine.r...@videotron.ca');>> > *Sent: *Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1 > > I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside > the flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. > Buy a cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then > grind a slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches. > You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly > easy once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and > healthy the hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange > turned rose (meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace > everything else. > Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin) > > > > Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit : > > > Howdy Listers, > > > > I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1. This > project > > started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded > > (shall we say) from there. Mission creep! > > > > The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25 > > diameter hole. The flange is even with the hull and does not stand > proud of > > it. I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then > > remove the through hull from the inside. > > > > Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might > find > > them? I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can. > > > > Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Joe Boyle > > Annapolis > > 1975 30 MK1 "Zia" > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- Joel 301 541 8551
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