In my opinion, when you find 30-year old lamp cord, replace it before it fails or worse yet, shorts out your electrical system. My bilge pump even used lamp cord originally! Use good Anchor-brand tinned wire of an appropriate size.
Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD (presently in Baltimore) 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame > On Mar 1, 2016, at 10:42 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I used the cable tie method to gather in all my wires (no conduit in mast) > and left the tails on. It works pretty well, you still get some wire slap, > and I’m not sure why, but it is not annoying enough to deter sleep. Maybe > heavier cable ties would center the bundle better – mine are just the > standard Lowe’s versions. > > If there’s a large hole in the masthead fitting, I would get a tube of rain > gutter caulk and fill it up – this stuff is very sticky and adheres well – > better than anything else I’ve tried. I like Joel’s idea of using a halyard > exit fitting to help keep the rain from coming in, but I have found you will > get water down the mast from the sheave exits and shroud fittings anyway. > > There are all sorts of rubber grommets to put around cables as they exit the > mast – again try an electrical supply place of home improvement store. The > in-cabin exit was filed smooth on my boat, and I’ve left it that way and have > had no problems in over 20 years. And, you spreader light wire is indeed lamp > cord – fix it if you think you need to, I haven’t and it still works fine. > > Just something to keep you awake at night….and there is no “right way” – it > is just your preference at this time – if you want “right” go find a Swan and > look at their plumbing and electrical setups and then open your wallet wide. > > Gary > 30-1 > Maryland > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel > Aronson via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 10:06 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List : Running cable in the mast > > Danny, > > Maybe something like this to create a loop and keep out water: > > http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=151199&engine=adwords&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CJDfxLrWn8sCFYEjHwod9ycIug > > Not sure how to secure the cable. Maybe some type of waterproof cable clamp > would keep out water and hold the cable? > > Joel > > > > On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:10 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Guys, > > I was down checking out the mast on my boat and I had some observations and > questions. > - there is a 1 inch conduit running about 2 feet from the very bottom to the > top. It is pretty full > - It seems to be the only conduit and there is no break at the spreader for > the deck lights wire or radar cable > - the current deck light wire looks like white lamp wire and I plan to > replace it > - the deck light wires are just run down the mast with no support and they > are noisy > - there is messenger run down the mast for the radar cable but, again not > supported > - what can I do to add some support when running the new wires? > - I've hears some people use longish cable ties on the wire and don't cut off > the tail to keep them quiet. I'm not sure about that idea... > - the radar cable is pretty heavy, I'm not sure if just running it 25 feet > down the mast, unsupported, is such a good idea > - there are virtually no access plates at the spreaders > - wires are run out of the mast through drilled holes. not so great for the > wire jacket. > - so, how do I do this the right way? > - whats the right way to run the wires? > - whats the right way to exit the mast? > - A lot of water gets into the bilge and I'm thinking the mast is a big > contributor, there is a wide open 3/4 inch hole through the mast head fitting > and the wires to the wind instrument have no loop for a drip leg. Add all > the drilled holes thru the side with wires coming through, with no drip > loops, and I think that all adds up considerably. > > Thanks for any and all insights and advice any of you can offer. > > Danny > T40 > Rum Runner IV > Mattapoiset, MA > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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