I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred
for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped!  Here are some
before + after photos showing how great they look:

https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9

It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you're not an OCD
perfectionist it might take you half that time.

And a few tips for those who haven't installed yet (sorry this turned out
very long):

- Surprisingly, dis-assembly went quite quick - I expected some seriously
corroded / stuck fasteners, but brute force (no breaker bar needed) got
them all apart without breaking. Used PB Blaster on one, not sure if it
made a difference.
- The lenses were about 1/8" longer than my current ones, and didn't quite
fit - so I had to sand down a few corners with a Dremel sanding drum. I'm
not sure if there were slight variations in the frame size from year to
year, or if it's just a cutting inaccuracy (it's hard cutting to within
millimeter precision, so I don't blame the fabricator!). I used a coarse
sanding drum, then medium, and finished hand sanding with 180 or 320 grit.
- The biggest time sink comes down to how your hinges are done. The
original hinges have a cast aluminum tapped (threaded) cylinder attached to
the hinge, which an SS bolt was screwed into. It's a neat design (no
penetrations above the hinge means fewer things to seal) but obviously
dissimilar metals corrode. There are basically two options:
   - My head hatch already had the hinges thru-bolted (drill 1/4" and mount
a hex bolt through it from the top). One hinge I had done myself when the
aluminum disintegrated last year, and the other had already been done.
However I still had to dremel down the remaining cast aluminum cylinder -
in order to get the hinges to seat flush with the new acrylic, because I
don't want to drill a 5/8" clearance hole like the lenses originally had. A
1/4" hole is much easier to drill (but then the cylinder can't seat in
that).
   - Reuse the existing tapped aluminum. My galley hatch ones were in
surprisingly good shape. After some cleanup with mineral spirits, the
original bolts threaded into the aluminum just fine. So I decided to save
the trouble of cutting them of, and reuse them (with lots of Lanocote or
TefGel). However drilling 5/8" holes in acrylic is hard, so that created
some trouble. The fitting is 1/2" but the original holes were 5/8" - you
need some clearance for expansion. Plas Drill bits max out at 1/2", and I
didn't have one that size on hand anyway. I did a test drill on the old
hatch acrylic with a 1/2" standard bit, and it took a big chip out of the
surface when it exited the other side. 1/2" drill bits are hard to use even
on wood without chipping. I bought a 5/8" Forstner bit and a 5/8" cheap
hole saw and went to the shop to use the drill press. This page has advice,
including on forstner bits for acrylic: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm
The Forstner was very slow and required a lot of pressure on the drill
press. It didn't melt, but I wouldn't use it again for acrylic this thick.
The Forstner chipped the edge on the exit. And broke the drill stop collar
on the drill press. But I didn't have a plywood backer, I was using a
doubled-over cardboard Amazon box (because I couldn't find my drilling
backer at the time) - so this was my fault for a dumb idea.
On the next hole, the hole saw with the aggressive teeth did melt the
acrylic, but went much faster. Water didn't really seem to slow the
melting, but the melted bits were not really a problem. The acrylic is so
thick and the 5/8" hole quite large, that a little melting on the perimeter
caused no noticeable damage.

- 1/4" Plas Drill bit worked great. I used that for the knob latch screws
and for the two thru-bolts on the head hatch. The thru-bolts I used were
1/4" I think, so I jangled the bit around to enlarge the hole so I'd have a
bit more clearance for heat expansion. If I were to redo the 5/8" holes I
think I'd get a 1/2" Plas Drill and then enlarge the hole with a Dremel.

I did all this while we had two gales blow through Seattle this weekend.
The one on Sunday winds peaked at 57 knots. Finishing the install with a 5
to 8 degree heel to the boat was fun. :)

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 9:00 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 09:22:35 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> Okay, here’s what I’ve got so far for replacement lenses for the small
> galley/head hatches:
>
> Paul Eugenio (maybe x2, but not sure)
> Patrick Davin x2
> Dan Sheer x2
> Don Harben x1
> Doug Mountjoy x2
> Jim Schwartz x2
>
>
> That gives me a total of NINE for sure; I can get them for the
> previously-quoted $65.00 each.  I should be able to ship in the US via
> Priority Mail for $20 (large flat rate box); Canada, I’m not sure of costs
> and will need to quote separately.
>
> Please email me OFF-LIST at f...@postaudio.net with your confirmation, as
> well as shipping address.  Assuming everyone’s still onboard, I can get the
> order in as soon as payment is settled.
>
> Thanks, and Happy New Year all!
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
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