It “looks" like my quadrant is anodized black aluminum—not bronze.  Small 
plates are used on each side of the aluminum quadrant to reinforce the 
attachment point.  (I say “looks” because I can’t even get close to it from my 
quarterberth.  It must have been a skinny guy that did my installation!)

Bob



> On May 31, 2016, at 1:42 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Bob (and other LF 38 folks),
> As I don’t have immediate access to Edson’s steering parts data base, can you 
> tell me if the Landfall 38 uses a radial drive wheel (full circle) or 
> quadrant (like a slice of pizza) shaped rudder to cable attachment?  Two 
> somewhat different animals that basically do the same thing, however, Edson’s 
> quadrants are bronze while the radial drive wheels are aluminum.  In 
> autopilot tiller arm installations that are “challenging” due to available 
> space,   there are a few nifty methods of reinforcing a quadrant (the bronze 
> thing) using 2 transverse pieces of ¼”x 1” wide stainless that would set in 
> the gap inside the triangular opening in the quadrant, one above and one 
> below the bronze webbing that keeps the quadrant from twisting.   The steel 
> pieces would bolt to that webbing.  The linear drive ram would attach to that 
> piece of steel providing a contact point at around 8” or so from the rudder 
> post as per Raymarine’s instructions.
>  
> Radial drives are harder to properly re-inforce at a single contact point, 
> partially due to the thin metal and also because the radial is dished and 
> won’t be at 90 degrees to the angle of the rudderpost (and as such with the 
> throw of the ram).   They also have reinforcing ribs designed to bear the 
> loads at the circumference.   However, if a single point attachment on a 
> radial drive is the LAST RESORT, you could cut two 2” “donuts” from aluminum 
> that would sit above and below the radial (taking care to not foul the take 
> up eyes and cables), and either weld the donuts in place (preferable) or bond 
> them using epoxy to the radial prior to drilling the radial for the ram 
> mounting bolt.  In this manner, you’re spreading the load of the attachment 
> pin where it passes through the radial, plus you are giving the radial a bit 
> of lateral structure when the ram is fixed to a single post that sits up from 
> its surface.
>  
> The reason most tiller arm installations are best done with a tiller arm with 
> a hollow channel that accepts the rose joint (ball joint) end of the ram 
> INSIDE the tiller arm is to support the forces placed on the arm by a 
> structure both above and below the ram.  If torque is applied to an pin (or 
> bolt) that sits 90 degrees from a horizontal platform (radial or otherwise), 
> the entire load is being borne by the single attachment point below the joint.
> Perhaps the structure you’ve built to support the ram is sufficiently rigid 
> and in line with your “quadrant” to prevent any twisting motion in a seaway, 
> but I’ve seen plenty of bent or broken tiller arm pins (and even a few 
> twisted tiller arms), where there was so much force applied by the ram to a 
> single po.int attachment that the system failed or even worse, jammed.  If 
> enough force is applied, a bronze tiller arm (or quadrant) will initially 
> bend and then tear.  An aluminum radial drive will simply fracture and break. 
>  Neither is ideal but a broken radial drive wheel could render the boat 
> unsteerable or at the very least, send you scrambling for the emergency 
> tiller.  And remember, this wouldn’t happen when the conditions are nice and 
> smooth with 2’ seas and a mild breeze.
> It would happen when the winds were blowing 30+ and you’re getting green 
> water over the foredeck…
>  
> As much as I dislike wheel pilots, even if my boat was larger than the 
> recommended size for the pilot,  it would be safer to use a wheel pilot and 
> have it disengage when the steering loads became too great than to simply 
> bolt the ram to a radial drive wheel and risk the drive wheel cracking when 
> the loads became more severe.  
> At Edson, I never liked using the words “steering” and “failure” in the same 
> sentence…
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>   <>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Persuasi  on37 via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 12:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Persuasion37 <persuasio...@gmail.com <mailto:persuasio...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38
>  
> Make that 2 data points.  That is how mine is attached. I think it was 
> installed in ‘98.  Two trips to the Bahamas (one PO) no issues with quadrant. 
>  I would be curious how it would be installed otherwise.
>  
> Miketi
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 Keel/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 12:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Robert Boyer <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38
>  
> Mine is attached to the quadrant and it has been working fine for about 10 
> years now.   I realize that is only one data point.  The attachment point can 
> only see the load that is resisted by the rudder, which at most times is 
> small.
> 
> Bob Boyer 
> s/v Rainy Days
> C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/>
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
> 
> On May 31, 2016, at 9:59 AM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> It is my understanding that attaching a ram directly to a quadrant is not 
>> recommended by Edson etc.   Quadrants are not engineered for those point 
>> loads.
>> 
>> Chuck?
>> 
>> David F. Risch
>> 1981 40-2
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 20:36:36 -0500
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> CC: f...@postaudio.net <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>
>> 
>> Jason — there is absolutely no room for a tiller arm on the LF38; you need 
>> to attach the ram directly to the quadrant, at the proper distance from the 
>> center of the rudder post for the drive you got.  One option is to orient 
>> the ram forward to aft, on the port side of the rudder post (access via the 
>> port quarter berth access hatch).  Otherwise, about your only other option 
>> is to have the ram oriented athwartship, forward of the rudder post, with 
>> the access through the cockpit locker. 
>>  
>> There are no easy steering system jobs on the LF38.
>>  
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>  
>>> On May 29, 2016, at 8:32 PM, Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>  
>>> Good Day Everyone.  Now that the sailing season is upon us life is good 
>>> again.  Life would be even better if I was able to use my autohelm.  I have 
>>> purchased an Raymarine EV200 linear drive unit and am trying to figure out 
>>> how to install it below deck.  As all C&C owners know there is very little 
>>> room at the best of times and it appears that when they made the LF38, 
>>> autohelm was never even a consideration.
>>>  
>>> I was wondering if there are any other LF owners out there that have 
>>> successfully installed a linear below deck drive that would be willing to 
>>> pass on their installation process.  Photos would also be appreciated.
>>>  
>>> Life is good on a boat, even when you are fixing her.
>>>  
>>> Good sailing and hope to talk soon.
>>>  
>>> Jason
>>> Starship LF38
>>> Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba
>> 
>>  
>> 
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> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38, Hull #230

2501 Boston Street
Mailbox #505
Baltimore, MD 21224


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