When I think of shaft set screws, I think of cone tip set screws. I think that's what Touche' has.
Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 1:24 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new > shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set screws, > tightened them and wired them in place. After about two months the shaft > slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think what happened > was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the holes allowing > enough play to release the shaft. I then put the set screws in a lathe and > cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just a solid tip, and tapered > the end. It's held since then. > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly, 35-1 > Glen Cove, NY > > > > On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > > I believe you but that's a bit scary. Shaft installed correctly using > best practice and it still came out. > > Dennis C. > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> actually there were. I can't figure out how they got free, but over time >> I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the >> detentes. I have a good picture I could send. >> Bill Walker >> >> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >> ------------------------------ >> On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws? Good >> idea to drill some if not. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Thanks all for replies. On investigation this morning it seems the >>> shaft pulled out of the connector to transmission. The two "keeper" bolts >>> were still in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose. The key was in >>> the bilge, mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny. The zinc on >>> shaft above the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the >>> boat. >>> Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today. >>> A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ? >>> Bill Walker >>> CnC 36 >>> Evening Star >>> Pentwater, Mi >>> >>> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet >>> >>> ------ Original message------ >>> *From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List >>> *Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM >>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com; >>> *Cc: *Frederick G Street; >>> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes >>> >>> And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road >>> before… :^) >>> >>> If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 >>> series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you *MAY* need >>> to replace the entire pedestal riser as well. On my 1979 Landfall 38, I >>> had the older (300 series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and >>> trying to fit engine control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very >>> unpleasant task. I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new >>> pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better solution, and the >>> new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel pilot, as well. >>> >>> — Fred >>> >>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis >>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI >>> >>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> Bill, >>> To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by >>> manually moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at >>> the pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control >>> related. Depending on which control you have, there are several items to >>> check: >>> 1. The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long >>> brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork. This is located beneath your >>> compass which will need to come off to check. It is roughly 4.5” long. >>> The end of your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is >>> connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter. As cables get >>> old and hard to move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the >>> cable breaks off in the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable. >>> The solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) >>> as well as a new clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted. >>> 2. The cable clamp has broken. When this happens, you can move >>> your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the >>> cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t >>> move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do >>> anything at the transmission end. Depending on the model of shifter you >>> have, this can be easy or a bear to replace. If you have a model 870 or >>> 816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below >>> the compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the >>> wheel shaft on the aft side of the pedestal. Inside the pedestal at that >>> point is a cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the >>> age of the boat. The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the >>> cable is as old as the boat and is stiff to operate. Instructions on >>> replacing the cable clamp (along with the cables) can be found here: >>> http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF >>> The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions >>> carefully before tearing into the project. >>> >>> If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of >>> the pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control >>> cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the >>> pedestal base, you have either a 727 or 747 control. If this is your set >>> up there are going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp. I would >>> typically recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable >>> holders for a model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also >>> as them to send you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of >>> the controller (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s). They will >>> likely recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending >>> whether your cable is pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward). >>> If you can bite the bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit >>> happier in the long run since the 727 control is a PITA to work on. If >>> you’re married to the existing control, you’ll need to remove the compass, >>> remove the pedestal top plate that covers the control’s internal cable >>> attachments and then try to slide the cable up the tube to check that the >>> cable clamp is still intact. Again, if Edson no longer has any more of the >>> clamps, you may need to fabricate your own from sheet metal stock… >>> Good luck with this project and you can usually get someone on the phone >>> at Edson to walk you through some of it. Bring your phone to the boat with >>> you and take pictures which you can send to their tech support staff as >>> they help you. >>> >>> Best, >>> Chuck Gilchrest >>> S/V Half Magic >>> 1983 LF 35 >>> Padanaram, MA >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >>> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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