Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new
shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set
screws, tightened them and wired them in place. After about two months
the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think
what happened was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the
holes allowing enough play to release the shaft. I then put the set
screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just
a solid tip, and tapered the end. It's held since then.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I believe you but that's a bit scary. Shaft installed correctly using
best practice and it still came out.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
actually there were. I can't figure out how they got free, but
over time I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the
bolts in the detentes. I have a good picture I could send.
Bill Walker
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set
screws? Good idea to drill some if not.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com
<mailto:wwadjo...@aol.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Thanks all for replies. On investigation this morning it
seems the shaft pulled out of the connector to transmission.
The two "keeper" bolts were still in place and wired so as to
not vibrate loose. The key was in the bilge, mangled, under
the connection of shaft and tranny. The zinc on shaft above
the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the
boat.
Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today.
A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ?
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F^(TM) 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
------ Original message------
*From: *Frederick G Street via CnC-List
*Date: *Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>;
*Cc: *Frederick G Street;
*Subject:*Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
And to amplify a bit on Chuck's answer, since I've been down
this road before... :^)
If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816
or 870 series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal,
you /MAY/ need to replace the entire pedestal riser as well.
On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 series?) pedestal
with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine control
cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant
task. I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new
pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better
solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel
pilot, as well.
--- Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bill,
To echo Edd's suggestion, if your engine transmission
engages by manually moving the lever on the gearbox but
not using the shift control at the pedestal, I too believe
the problem to be cable or engine control related.
Depending on which control you have, there are several
items to check:
1.The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a
long brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork. This is
located beneath your compass which will need to come off
to check. It is roughly 4.5" long. The end of your 33
series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is
connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter.
As cables get old and hard to move, I've seen many times
where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the
clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable. The
solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+
year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded end
can't be extracted.
2.The cable clamp has broken. When this happens, you can
move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but
because the housing of the cable is no longer being held
in place, the inside rod in the cable won't move
independently of the cable housing, which means the cable
won't do anything at the transmission end. Depending on
the model of shifter you have, this can be easy or a bear
to replace. If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift
and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below
the compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located
about 5-6" below the wheel shaft on the aft side of the
pedestal. Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable
clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the
age of the boat. The plastic ones can break over time,
especially if the cable is as old as the boat and is stiff
to operate. Instructions on replacing the cable clamp
(along with the cables) can be found
here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF
The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the
instructions carefully before tearing into the project.
If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard
just aft of the pedestal between the pedestal column and
the wheel and the control cables run inside their own 1"
stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base,
you have either a 727 or 747 control. If this is your
set up there are going to be challenges with replacing a
cable clamp. I would typically recommend calling Edson
and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a
model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and
also as them to send you the engineering bulletin that
shows the breakdown of the controller (which was
discontinued in the late 1980's). They will likely
recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control
(depending whether your cable is pushed or pulled to
engage the engine in forward). If you can bite the bullet
and take that approach, you'll probably be a bit happier
in the long run since the 727 control is a PITA to work
on. If you're married to the existing control, you'll need
to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top plate that
covers the control's internal cable attachments and then
try to slide the cable up the tube to check that the cable
clamp is still intact. Again, if Edson no longer has any
more of the clamps, you may need to fabricate your own
from sheet metal stock...
Good luck with this project and you can usually get
someone on the phone at Edson to walk you through some of
it. Bring your phone to the boat with you and take
pictures which you can send to their tech support staff as
they help you.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
