hmm. wish had seen this before finished repair. Bill Walker Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set screws, tightened them and wired them in place. After about two months the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think what happened was the threads on the end of the screws compressed in the holes allowing enough play to release the shaft. I then put the set screws in a lathe and cut the bottom of the threads off, so it was just a solid tip, and tapered the end. It's held since then. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 6/30/2016 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: I believe you but that's a bit scary. Shaft installed correctly using best practice and it still came out. Dennis C. On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: actually there were. I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes. I have a good picture I could send. Bill Walker Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws? Good idea to drill some if not. Dennis C. On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Thanks all for replies. On investigation this morning it seems the shaft pulled out of the connector to transmission. The two "keeper" bolts were still in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose. The key was in the bilge, mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny. The zinc on shaft above the prop strut did its job and kept the shaft from exiting the boat. Boat in haul out well so we can make repair today. A reminder that the zinc is important even in fresh water ? Bill Walker CnC 36 Evening Star Pentwater, Mi Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet ------ Original message------ From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:02 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Cc: Frederick G Street; Subject:Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before… :^) If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series, depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the entire pedestal riser as well. On my 1979 Landfall 38, I had the older (300 series?) pedestal with the narrower riser tube; and trying to fit engine control cables down inside that skinny tube was a very unpleasant task. I finally bit the bullet and got a completely new pedestal; with the wider riser tube, it was a much better solution, and the new pedestal was a better fit for my wheel pilot, as well. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jun 30, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Bill, To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related. Depending on which control you have, there are several items to check: 1. The shift cable attaches to the lever at the helm via a long brass clevis that looks like a tuning fork. This is located beneath your compass which will need to come off to check. It is roughly 4.5” long. The end of your 33 series cable threads into the end of the clevis which is connected to the shift lever via a clevis pin and cotter. As cables get old and hard to move, I’ve seen many times where the threaded end of the cable breaks off in the clevis, rendering the shift mechanism unusable. The solution is a replacement cable (not a bad idea on a 30+ year old boat) as well as a new clevis if the threaded end can’t be extracted. 2. The cable clamp has broken. When this happens, you can move your throttle and shift levers up and down, but because the housing of the cable is no longer being held in place, the inside rod in the cable won’t move independently of the cable housing, which means the cable won’t do anything at the transmission end. Depending on the model of shifter you have, this can be easy or a bear to replace. If you have a model 870 or 816 control (shift and throttle are in a cylindrical housing directly below the compass), there will be a screw or hex nut located about 5-6” below the wheel shaft on the aft side of the pedestal. Inside the pedestal at that point is a cable clamp, either made of aluminum or plastic depending on the age of the boat. The plastic ones can break over time, especially if the cable is as old as the boat and is stiff to operate. Instructions on replacing the cable clamp (along with the cables) can be found here:http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF The process is not intuitive so it is worth reading the instructions carefully before tearing into the project. If the engine control levers are set on port and starboard just aft of the pedestal between the pedestal column and the wheel and the control cables run inside their own 1” stainless steel tubes that sit behind the pedestal base, you have either a 727 or 747 control. If this is your set up there are going to be challenges with replacing a cable clamp. I would typically recommend calling Edson and seeing if they still have any cable holders for a model 727 engine control for a series 33 shift cable and also as them to send you the engineering bulletin that shows the breakdown of the controller (which was discontinued in the late 1980’s). They will likely recommend selling you either the 870 or 816 control (depending whether your cable is pushed or pulled to engage the engine in forward). If you can bite the bullet and take that approach, you’ll probably be a bit happier in the long run since the 727 control is a PITA to work on. If you’re married to the existing control, you’ll need to remove the compass, remove the pedestal top plate that covers the control’s internal cable attachments and then try to slide the cable up the tube to check that the cable clamp is still intact. Again, if Edson no longer has any more of the clamps, you may need to fabricate your own from sheet metal stock… Good luck with this project and you can usually get someone on the phone at Edson to walk you through some of it. Bring your phone to the boat with you and take pictures which you can send to their tech support staff as they help you. Best, Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
