I agree draining may not be the best option. Touche's raw water cooled AT4 had been idle for years (at least 8-10 to my knowledge).
When I pulled the side plates to clean the water chamber area around the cylinders, I discovered the sealing surface of the block around the side plates had thinned due to corrosion. The thinning was from the inside. My guess is the block was only partially filled which allowed oxygen to be present inside the water chamber area. I had to upsize a few of the side plate bolts. Eventually, the thinning caused leakage around the side plates. It got bad enough I repowered with a diesel. Keeping the cooling chamber full may prevent oxygen from causing corrosion. Dennis C. On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 3:41 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > When I first put fresh water cooling on my A4, I did drain the block and > pump every year, but then it occurred to me that I was leaving the interior > of the engine filled with air and moisture, not the best combination. > Taking the side plate off in my case would be difficult. I now make sure > my coolant has antifreeze (the automotive type) that protects down to minus > whatever, and leave the block full. My thinking is that the coolant has a > corrosion inhibitor in it, probably better for the engine. Am I missing > something? > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly, 35-1 > Glen Cove > > > On 10/11/2016 1:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > > When I bought Touche' in 1999, it had an AT4. It had the drain plug > extension. When I finally got it started, the drain plug extension > leaked. As I recall, it was corroded at the threads at the cap. When I > went to replace it, it fell apart. I think it's just a 1/8 or 1/4 pipe > nipple. Just something to check and be aware of. > > Dennis C. > > On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 11:50 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I have the extension pipe installed between the distributor and the >> alternator belt. There is just a cap on the end that I remove to drain >> the block. It is easy. The two drain plugs on the block are simple to get >> to. The drain plug on the bottom of the water pump is a bit fiddly to >> start back in, mainly just an issue getting into the lazerette enough >> to reach it. I doubt it is a 5 minute job to do all four. >> >> Is it common to just drain the engine ( block ) and not fill it with >> antifreeze? >> >> Michael Brown >> Windburn >> C&C 30-1 >> >> From: "phorvati ." <phorv...@gmail.com> >> >> U have to drain the block. Side inspection plate will leak if you dont >> drain it. Its fragile as it is. It doesnt take too much freezing to >> develop leaks. Block drain plug is under distributor, just aft of side >> inspection plate. It's pita. Moyer sells extention to make this easy. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
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