When my A4 was raw water cooled I did it like so: The water intake hose goes into a big 5 gallon bucket full of anti-freeze. I put a hose on the exhaust that does the same. The engine pumps the anti-freeze around and around and when it gets up to temp I shut it off and change the oil. This can be done in or out of the water. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 10:50 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4 Marek, the worry is back-filling through the exhaust. if the engine is not running there is a very real risk of water going in through the exhaust manifold because there is no pressure from the exhaust of the running engine pushing the water out. It is the same issue if you are having trouble starting the engine and you let the starter continue to turn everything for an extended time without the engine firing. It is a well documented issue on the Moyer Marine forums. The cooling pump itself is what pumps the water in during difficulty starting while turning the starter. Danny On 10/11/2016 10:42 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: You have to connect the shopvac _after_ the water pump. If your water pump is any good it will not allow anything to pass through it (when it Is not turning). And if it does, you have to change the impeller. Marek From: Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2016 07:25 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Kevin Deluzio Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4 My first haul-out with a new-to-me 1980 C&C30 with an Atomic 4 as well. I like the idea of using the shop-vac to blow the water out. Do you connect that to the same location - at water intake hose disconnected from seacock ? Kevin From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4 Date: October 10, 2016 at 10:27:53 PM EDT To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> You can plumb in auxiliary suctions that will let you draw glycol straight out of the jug. If you haul the boat you can stuff a tygon hose up the through hull and beer bong the glycol into the engine. Or you can try the seaflush. I have one and it works, though it might be a bit over priced. I like using the shop vac to blow the water out. That may actually be sufficient. I am cautious though and carefully consider the possibility of stagnant loops of water. So, despite "blowing out" the engine, I also run glycol. The nice thing is that I don't have to worry as much about the water diluting the glycol. It takes way less glycol to provide freeze protection. http://www.seaflush.com/sea-flush-1/ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Oct 10, 2016 9:50 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust. My main question is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake. I've seen a gadget made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone, that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose in a bucket of antifreeze. Any other recommended techniques? Any other general tips on properly winterizing an A4? Thanks, Randy _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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