Mike, For whatever it is worth…
I have experience with two furlers: a Furlex and Harken A00. None of them was installed over the rod stay. Both work(ed) fine, though, as Josh mentioned, Furlex was probably better engineered. One big issue I have with my current Harken is how it attaches to the bow. It is hard to describe without a picture, but it should suffice to say that you need at least three hands to hold all the pieces together, you need to do it from outside of the boat (e.g. levitating in the air ahead of the bow) and the pin that holds it in place has an extreme propensity to dive into any water that is close by. And the replacement is around $60-$150, depending on the size. In short, if you need to unstep the mast on a regular basis (we do, here in Ottawa), Look at how the whole assembly attaches to the bow chainplate. It should be a simple toggle (like for your shrouds). Anything more complicated will cause you pain in the future. Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 13:36 To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller furling choices advice? I have a 1989 era Harken. Not sure of the model. As best I can tell it is original to the boat. It had the original -12 rod in it until the end of 2015 when I had the whole thing rebuilt and replaced the rod with -17. IIRC the rod was only $200 of the rebuild cost. For almost 30 years of marine exposure the technician and I were pleased with the condition of the furler. I have confidence that it would have continued to perform well but I was concerned about the head stay and having it replaced gives me great confidence. I have also installed Selden/Furlex and am exceedingly satisfied with the thoughtfulness of the engineering. I considered replacing my Harken with Furlex but there is no way to use rod and the cost would have been almost 3x the cost of rebuilding my Harken. I didn't do any of the work myself. The yard was great using the spare halyards to stabilize the mast, removing the furler, disassembling the furler, cutting siezed end fittings off the rod, procuring replacement fittings, shipping the rod to have it measured, remade of - 17, shipped back, reassembled, and finally reinstalled. It would have been a royal pain for me for do it myself. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 13, 2017 11:19 PM, "Michael Jones via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Ls and Gs I'm sure there is loads of experience on roller furlers out there...can you share some of it? I have a 1981 C&C 34 with a track on the forestay. I am considering replacing this with a roller furler I'd like to be able to install myself, and I'd like to keep the existing forestay as it's rod and I'd rather not have to disturb it by shortening it as some of the systems require. I'd also like not to have to change it to wire (at least one furler manufacturer claims their system is not compatible with rod rigging). Profurl seems a possibility, Harken would need to shorten the stay. Any comments would be appreciated! Best regards Mike Jones 1981 C&C 34 Seanachai Oak Bay, Victoria. _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
