It is an 1157 auto bulb.

If the socket is corroded you can buy a new socket.  You don't have to buy
a whole new light.

Joel

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On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> Go to http://store.marinebeam.com/replacement-bulbs/.  If you can't
> identify it, call them.  They are helpful.
>
> Many of us on the list have had great results with their lights and
> bulbs.  I think they are superior.
>
> Nearly every LED on Touche' plus several fixtures are from marinebeam.
>
> Very satisfied customer.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandevile, LA
>
> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 8:21 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> First to Richard, who started this thread:
>>
>> First, identify the light.  On our 1994 C&C 37/40+, ours lights are Aqua
>> Signal 41 series lights.  1 screw at the bottom will remove the lens.  As
>> for the bulb, in these, they are specifically Aqua Signal brand labled, and
>> are 25 watt incandescent bulbs on the bow lights and 10 watt on the stern.
>>
>> The base is 1/2 across, but the pins are offset, one higher than
>> another.  I don't know if this is an Aqua Signal brand thing going on, or
>> if this is a standard base for a similar automotive bulb number - does
>> anyone know?
>>
>> I'd like to convert our lights to LED, as 60 watts of total power for nav
>> lights is 5 amps, and with LEDs, I should be able to drop that to 1 amp or
>> less - that in my mind is a huge difference for cruising overnight.
>>
>> Does anyone know the proper LEDs for accomplishing this, and at a
>> reasonable price?  Yes, I understand if I put a bulb in that isn't
>> specifically designed for the light I may be deviating from the MFR
>> requirements and thus maybe causing an issue if there were to be an
>> accident.  Still, it's better than running down a battery in my opinion.
>>
>> One other note - From everything I have read, red LED replacements should
>> be placed behind red lenses and green behind green lenses (rather than
>> using white bulbs).  This is because the colored LEDs produce light that is
>> close to the same wavelength as the lenses, so the filter very little of
>> the light.
>>
>> Guidance anyone?
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *To:* Richard Walter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:20 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List changing stern light
>>
>> Consider mooring stern in, if possible, and work from the dock.
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>> *From: *Richard Walter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent: *Thursday, August 10, 2017 20:35
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc: *Richard Walter <sailind...@yahoo.com>
>> *Subject: *Stus-List changing stern light
>>
>> Ahoy!
>>
>> Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an
>> OEM 1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the
>> water? I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to
>> minimize dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Richard Walter
>> s/v INDIGO
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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