Dave Did the same on our 37 Amazing Grace about five years ago. Used new screws, no bolts. Invested time in digging out the minor amount of open weak wood. There was no rot but around the screws has some gaps and would not have held the screws with out solid filling. After filling with epoxy leveled the surface better than original to allow a consistent fill of sealant. I think we used butyl rubber from a tube. Still working in San Diego, no leaks.
Sent from my iPhone 972-849-4730 > On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> wrote: > > So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and > experiences here. > > I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and > am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle > hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The > original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a > dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No > through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus > years > > The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws > and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my > overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the > v-berth. > > So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit >
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