Dave, I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do keep hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job. Dave. Kaseler SLY 1975 C&C 33
Sent from my iPad > On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and > experiences here. > > I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and > am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle > hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The > original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a > dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No > through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus > years > > The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws > and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my > overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the > v-berth. > > So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
