Okay, so I post a question, sign off and go to dinner. Catch a TV show and roll off to bed. Wake up the next day and see, not surprisingly, that there are great suggestions and good examples on both sides of the problem.
Also see that the thread has take a bit of an off-beat turn. Again, not surprising knowing this list. š Anyway, Dennis and Tom, thanks. Given that EVERY hole in my deck was filled with low-densify West System prior to painting, Iām in good shape replacing the remaining original Atkins-Hoyle hatch. The new Lewmar has fewer screw-holes so I will make sure to drill-and-fill on those but I did a good bit of filling and fairing so the mating surface will be pristine. I will use the #12 and #14 S.S. screws and butyl per original C&C installation. Danny, no, there is no āheadlinerā as I think you mean it. On this model the deck is molded and a GRP liner glued to the overhead and then the whole unit bolted to the hull. There are no teak frames around any ports or hatches. Gary, Fred and Dave, thanks for the sound advice on not exposing my nutsā¦. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Roninās Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Sep 26, 2017, at 10:31 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dave, > I have to confess that I rebed my original hatch to stop a leak and ended up > through bolting it and used acorn nuts. Wish I hadn't. Looks bad and I do > keep hitting my head. Wish I knew of butyl tape when I did the job. > Dave. Kaseler > SLY > 1975 C&C 33 > > Sent from my iPad > > On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > >> So Iām crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and >> experiences here. >> >> I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and >> am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle >> hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The >> original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a >> dopeā¦) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No >> through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus >> years >> >> The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws >> and nuts. Letās just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my >> overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the >> v-berth. >> >> So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? >> >> Best, >> Dave Godwin >> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin >> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay >> Roninās Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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