Hi Chuck,
You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to 
steering if I turn it that much when out sailing.  I also agree as to the 
keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I removed 
the radial plate for inspection.  On the C&C 37/40+, the idler pulleys are not 
below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after taking out a 
removable triangular panel in the cockpit.  So, the parts won't drop down into 
the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome.  :(  

I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely.  I'm 
not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are 
accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.  

You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0


847-404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


      From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
 Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
   
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{}#yiv2637076606 Michael,A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL 
lot of wheel travel with no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” 
diameter wheel which means at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would 
have moved roughly 7 ½” to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my 
hand moves the wheel that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with 
a big wheel.Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the 
rudder shaft by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined 
undersized by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut 
in the radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel 
in place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.I too suspect 
a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot after 
tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping various 
bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat handling 
suffers when this happens..Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, 
MA    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?  If the radial wheel 
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1

 
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 +0000 (UTC) 
From: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket. 
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.? 

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket. 
Thoughts? 
Bruce Whitmore 
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 
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