The 4 pedestal bolts at the base are embedded into the fiberglass.  I have
not seen any nuts on the back side nor have I needed to supply any
resistance from underneath.  Just use your socket wrench to remove the
bolts.  The idler plate is sandwiched between the pedestal and the deck.
The deck was even custom molded with recesses to accommodate the plate.

The bolts are supposed to be aluminum to help minimize galvanic corrosion
on the pedestal.  I took it a step further and made aluminum washers to
prevent marring where the bolt head interfaces with the pedestal.  I also
used nylon washers to provide galvanic isolation between the idler plate,
the pedestal, and the bolts.  I forget what the torque spec is but be
careful since they are aluminum.

Before you disassemble too much you might gain some useful information be
using an inspection mirror or camera to view under the pedestal.  You can
reach in and feel around pretty good too.

Josh



On Wed, Jan 24, 2018, 2:37 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads
> and lubed the chain.  I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain
> links for the purposes of realigning the wheel.  I have not taken the chain
> off entirely.  If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather than
> having to work with nuts on the backside, that would make things MUCH
> easier.
>
> Interestingly, there was some commentary about how there were "wheels"
> replaced in the steering system before I bought the boat, but that was not
> documented, so I kind of disregarded it at the time.  I'd sure like it if I
> didn't have to deal with parts that are no longer manufactured!
>
> Any available documentation about the process on my particular boat would
> be extremely helpful!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
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