Hi Bruce Your bolts don’t look original. Mine are countersunk heads. Mine are aluminum about seven inches long with stainless nuts. When I took mine apart one on the bolts galled up and I had to drill the head out. Edson no longer stocks that type of bolt so I went with a stainless hex head bolt like yours.
Mike PERSUASION C&C 37 K/CB Long Sault > On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Chuck, > > You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to > steering if I turn it that much when out sailing. I also agree as to the > keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I > removed the radial plate for inspection. On the C&C 37/40+, the idler > pulleys are not below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after > taking out a removable triangular panel in the cockpit. So, the parts won't > drop down into the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome. :( > > I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely. I'm > not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are > accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel. > > You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here: > https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0 > > > 847-404-5092 (mobile) > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net > > > From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net> > Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? > > Michael, > A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with > no explanation. I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means > at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” > to one side or the other. Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel > that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel. > Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft > by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized > by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the > radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in > place on the rudder. Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the > rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on > the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel. > I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot > after tensioning. The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping > various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack. Boat > handling suffers when this happens.. > Chuck Gilchrest > Half Magic > 1983 Landfall 35 > Padanaram, MA > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael > Brown via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? > > If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue. > Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial > wheel. > 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line. > > Michael Brown > Windburn > C&C 30-1 > > > Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> > > Hello all, > > OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... > I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the > wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came > back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were > talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my > autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to > approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment > bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 > notches on the wheel sprocket. > All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to > find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these > adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be > relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce > the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out > sailing. > > During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a > little loose, and tightened those.? > > Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the > cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on > the sprocket. > Thoughts? > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL > (847) 404-5092 (mobile) > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
