Josh,

Good to know!

Joel

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On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 10:51 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I reached out to the internet for some more info on sheave and rope
> sizes.  I stumbled upon a Marlow website which was loaded with technical
> details.  They had a FAQ section and then a submit your own question
> section.  Here is their answer.
>
> We normally say the ideal groove is one that has a width around 10-15%
> bigger than the rope diameter and has a semicircle profile.  The reason for
> this is that it supports the rope's shape without causing abrasion or
> distortion.  If the groove is too small then the rope rubs against the
> sides when entering and leaving the sheave and is squeezed, this causes
> abrasion and can accelerate rope wear.  If the groove is too big it allows
> the rope to distort and flatten as it enters the sheave, this will cause
> more internal abrasion and so accelerate fatigue.
>
> V grooves are normally used where the rope, or wire, is driving the sheave
> (or vice versa).  In this case the 'V' serves to increase the friction
> between the rope and the sheave at the expense of rope life.
>
> I hope this explains things.
>
> Regards,
> Paul Dyer | Technical Manager
> WWW.MARLOWROPES.COM
>
>
> So there you have it.  As previously discussed I'll be having the sheaves
> made with a 1/2" groove.  I'm willing to trade off slightly reduced service
> life for the versatility of a larger groove.  Hopefully this helps someone
> else.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Jan 23, 2018 7:41 PM, <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>>
>>
>>
>> I use the term stopper as a generic for sheet stoppers, halyard stoppers,
>> jammers, rope clutches, or almost any kind of mechanical cleat (except a
>> cam cleat.  I call those cam cleats).  I have some really old Schaefer rope
>> clutches that work just fine.  They hold 3/8” or 10mm line well, 7/16” most
>> of the time too.
>>
>>
>>
>> I don’t think there is any serious concern if the sheave is slightly too
>> large.  Yes, the halyard will be slightly flattened, as it will not be
>> supported quite as well, but as long as the difference is only 1/8” or so,
>> it’s not an issue.  A serious mismatch (1/4” or more) might be cause for
>> some concern, but it would be the long term damage from being repeatedly
>> flattened and reshaped as the line runs over the sheave.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, January 22, 2018 21:42
>> *To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C 37+
>>
>>
>>
>> Halyard stopper?  What's that?  Haha, no really what's that?  Stopper
>> balls?  Or jammers?
>>
>>
>>
>> You're right though 3/8ths is almost too small for my winches.  So
>> smaller is pretty unlikely.  But bigger might be nice, particularly if it
>> becomes necessary to run the taper of a core to core eye splice.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 3/8ths sta-set I have for my spin halyard is almost too small at
>> ~5000 lbs break strength.  I really like to make sure my lifting rigging is
>> sufficient for climbing standards.
>>
>>
>>
>> I guess my question is, is there any disadvantage to running smaller line
>> in a big sheave.
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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