This may be the problem I encountered.  The guy in Australia probably doesn’t 
have large temperature swings like we do on the Great Lakes.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2018 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats

Just be careful it's Spar Varnish and not Polyurethane.  Spar Varnish retains 
more flexibility so withstand the heat swings of being exposed outside.

Caution is advised though - I'm no expert!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: William Hall via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: William Hall <wh...@alum.mit.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats


This summer I discovered varnish in a spray can.  I decided to try it on my 
grab rails. Two interesting differences from traditional varnish: 

- Subsequent coats can be applied without sanding if done within an hour or so. 
 You don't wait for it to dry completely.  
- No brush marks

Has anyone else had experience with it? I thought it worked pretty well in my 
test, and certainly liked the ability to get many coats done in a short day. I 
look forward to seeing how it holds up over time.  It seems there must be some 
downside to this!

Bill
Starfire
C&C 37
Ludington, MI


On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Dave, 

  You're not an unwanted guest.  I actually agree with your opinion to some 
degree.  I was walking piers one day and saw a Pearson 365 that belonged to a 
local sailmaker.  The varnished teak toe rails looked amazing. I asked him how 
many coats of varnish.  Answer: 23.

  I varnished the teak grate in Touche's head a few years back.  Applied in 
excess of 15 coats, probably more than 20.  Sanding between each coat.  It 
looks really good.

  Philosophically, I liken the Cetol vs varnish decision to that of Awlgrip vs 
Awlcraft 2000.  Awlgrip is harder, probably looks better longer but is harder 
to apply and repair.  

  For me, the difference is in the sanding between coats.  If you want really 
great varnish, you need to diligently sand between coats.  Cetol does not 
require sanding between coats.  Apllying a filler to the bare teak prior to 
varnish is another difference.

  Interested in results and experiences with Awlwood.

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

  On Feb 9, 2018 9:11 AM, "Dave Godwin via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

    Consider me the unwanted guest at the party on this thread but I won’t use 
Cetol. A few reasons. Years ago I redid all the teak trim on my Mako 261. 
Fortunately the teak was just aged out. No prior coating that I could 
determine. I sanded to bright, applied base coats of light Cetol and then 
several coats of their Gloss. It looked okay, but not nearly as nice as a good 
varnish job. I figured I could live with that if the maintenance was 
substantially less than varnish. 

    It didn’t turn out that way. Yes, the Cetol lasted a bit longer than 
varnish but not enough to overcome the “look” that IMHO was not as smooth and 
deep as varnish.

    Although I haven’t subjected my exterior teak trim on “Ronin” to the 
outdoors yet, everything that I have re-varnished, cabin sole included, has 
been done with AwlWood. Just from an ease of application (5/6 coats versus 8-10 
for regular varnish) and the deep, clear look it is worth it. 

    As an aside, I have a friend with a Tartan 37 who ponied up $4,000 last 
year to have a professional crew redo all his exterior teak with Cetol. I 
watched the process being done in the yard near my boat. It took every bit as 
much time as a varnish job. Yesterday I was on his boat checking it out for him 
and I was noting the quality of the finish. Very good but nowhere near as nice 
as a well done varnish job.

    And being the contrarian that I can be, next time I have to apply AwlWood, 
I’ll spray.

    Best, 
    Dave Godwin
    1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
    Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
    Ronin’s Overdue Refit


      On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:10 AM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

      So those using Cetol and putting gloss as the last two coats.   Is that 
for looks?   Hardness?  Both?

      Thanks in advance.


      David F. Risch

      (401) 419-4650 (cell)





--------------------------------------------------------------------------

      From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > on behalf of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, February 7, 2018 2:18 PM
      To: CnClist
      Cc: Dennis C.
      Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak 

      I used teak oil on the toe rails of my previous boat.  I religiously 
oiled them every few months.  After a few months, they looked like crap. 

      On Touche' I use Cetol.  Five coats Cetol Marine followed by three coats 
Cetol Gloss.  Then a coat of Cetol gloss twice a year.  Over ten years in the 
Louisiana sun and still looking pretty good.

      I seen dock neighbors use Bristol, teak oil, Semco, etc.  For my money 
and time, it's Cetol.  However, I'd be tempted to look hard at Awlwood.

      Dennis C.
      Touche' 35-1 #83
      Mandeville, LA

      On Feb 7, 2018 10:47 AM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

        My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to 
refinish it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was 
wondering if anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking for 
recommendations.

        Brien Sadler
        S/V TAZ
        C&C 35-3

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wh...@alum.mit.edu
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