The first sign that the anode has lost its magnesium (and the iron core is exposed) is the bad smell (sulphuric) from the tap. If you notice that, you are a bit too late for replacing it.
Marek From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2018 05:48 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater In my link there is a picture of the anode for the 6 gallon Raritan. This one is integrated into the hot water nipple. Nothing remained of the original. They start as 1/2" to 3/4" diameter rods and will typically be as long as can be accommodated by the tank. In this case, about 12". There is an iron core which gives the anode strength and electrical continuity. It is not uncommon to have the core be the only thing left. In my case even the core had rusted away. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cecf27e8c83b7425f854f08d580f4569b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636556709270091919&sdata=LsqFS26CRzd9yc42ITnzMhr30UwXQFpPPJjRDauLvQA%3D&reserved=0> I've wondered if anode wastage was a likely problem since the water heater AC is coming from shore power. If shore power can waste your shaft anodes why not the one in the water heater? Josh On Fri, Mar 2, 2018, 10:42 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Most often, the anode is part of the pressure relieve valve (the one that if you open it once, it does not close back properly). Marek From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 19:54 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> Subject: Stus-List water heater I have had my boat 12 years (seasons here in the North) with the same hot water heater.....coolant and electric.....never knew there might be an anode to replace. However, after 12 seasons by me and I don't know how many by the original owner, I should be thinking, no planning, of replacing it. When I took my fuel tank outlast Fall, another story, I measured the water tank and it will not come up from the lazarette, as is.....it is just too big.....it would have to be either taken apart ( the outer casing from the actual tank) or cut it up. One thing for sure, if C&C or the previous put it in, it did not go down the lazarette the way it is put together right now. And if you had to take it apart and put it back together when you get it in, why would you do that in the first place. Get get a water heater that fits down the lazarette. It can't be 33 years old? Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32- 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2018-03-02 5:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the sacrificial anode in boat water heaters. Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone dry. I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe longer. I haven't checked the anode yet. Just curious, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7C%7Cecf27e8c83b7425f854f08d580f4569b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636556709270091919&sdata=GL3uvRY4KzOTGiCdwfgIWYziJN8DLaNeDfNSz4PMeOI%3D&reserved=0>
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