Good points.  What I was referring to is the new rigid synthetic cores that are 
at least as strong as the balsa, are light weight, and won’t rot.

My concern with using wood is that if you don’t fully remove the wet wood, the 
new wood will wick the water out of the wet areas and set up more/ future rot.

Either way, you are spot on in determining first and foremost where the water 
came from!

Neil
1982 C&C 32
FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

________________________________
From: j...@mymts.net
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen; Paul
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chain plate hull reinforcement

Paul
Neil is correct there are more modern materials available so worth looking 
into. I'll admit I'm a bit old school so what follows is what I've used for 
many years and am most comfortable with.
For repairs such as this to replace wet / rotten balsa core I've stayed with 
balsa but also have used marine grade plywood of required thickness to match 
the balsa being replaced.
Properly fitted and then used West System epoxy to glass in on both sides.  
Deciding factor for me to use plywood is if there are fasteners that will be 
going through the sandwich panel.
If you use balsa in this case it should be potted with epoxy in the area where 
the bolts go through to prevent crushing when the bolts are tightened.
This stays to the original design intent (strength and weight) and is cost 
effective.  I would also look into how water got in the first place to cause 
the current rot and fix that issue by using butyl tape or other means.
The other approach is to use foam core material (either rigid or two part 
liquid foam) which is how most rudders are made.
I had to rebuild the rudder on a C&C 29 Mk2 to replace a bent rudder post (done 
by prior owner) and after installing the new post I poured in two part liquid 
low expansion 15 lb density  foam to replace the foam I removed (damaged / wet).
Once cured it is easy to cut / shape with a saw or long blade to match contour, 
and then epoxied new glass skin in place.  Again, in areas where bolts or 
fasteners are going through consider potting that area with epoxy so as not to 
crush the foam core.
This technique also works well on decks and the nice part of using a two part 
epoxy expanding foam is you pour it in and it will fill the entire cavity and 
bond well.
If you google balsa core or plywood core or foam core boat deck repairs so will 
find some very detailed instructions and pictures of repairs done by other boat 
owners.
Here is one example for a deck repair.... 
https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-damaged-balsa-core/
Good luck!
Cheers
James

________________________________
From: "Neil Andersen via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Neil Andersen" <neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>, "Paul" <pdsax...@rogers.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 7:28:19 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chain plate hull reinforcement

I would talk to a good fiberglass person.  Good boats these days are not using 
balsa coring but a synthetic that won’t rot (one way to differentiate quality 
on newer boats).  Check out 
https://www.boats.com/resources/shifts-in-fiberglass/ and 
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Core_Materials/core_materials.html.

Neil
1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

________________________________
From: 30071455000n behalf of
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 6:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul
Subject:Stus-List Chain plate hull reinforcement

Hello all,
There are reinforcing “pads” that are glassed in at the base of the small 
bulkheads supporting the chain plates on my C&C 29 Mk1. Under the roving there 
is balsa (mostly rotted) bonded to the inside surface of the hull.
Is it best to replace with identical new balsa core matting or does anyone have 
recommendations on some other method of stiffening the hull in this location.
Thanks

Paul D. Saxton
29 Mk 1
Boomerang

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