Chuck, I’d always recommend spraying paint as opposed to rolling-and-tip but your reasons for doing the latter are quite sound. So, no recommendation to lightly sand, cover, tape and spray.
I do have a strong opinion about the non-skid which you probably don’t really care about. I don’t care for Kiwi-Grip for the same reasons that Mike alluded to, primarily aggressiveness. There are other types of grip, one that uses little rubbery pellets and so forth. I’ve researched them a bit. After doing my decks, I would not use anything other that AwlGrip’s Grip Tex. When completed it matched the original C&C non-skid to within 97%. Looks and feels like factory. At least I think so ‘cause my decks were “skid” rather than “n on-skid" when we bought the boat… ;-) Very simple to apply. 1. Lightly sand off what's left of the original non-skid, clean and tape nearby gloss. 2. Prep surface per your paint’s instructions (don’t need an AwlCraft/AwlGrip product)) with a small foam roller. 3. Have a mixture of 50/50 Grip Tex coarse grit and fine grit in a plastic container (I used one of those clear plastic olive containers with a lid that you find at Whole Food or Wegmans) with some holes punched in the top. 4. “Salt” the freshly painted surface. Don’t worry about making it 100% even in distribution on the first pass. Just let it fly. 5. Come back after 20-30 minutes and roll another coat of paint over the area to lock in the Grip Tex. 6. Repeat Step 4. for areas that might be a bit thin. You’ll be able to tell easily. 7. Repeat Step 5. That’s it. When done it will appear even, not look or feel aggressive and it will be quite non-kiddy… Regards, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On May 1, 2019, at 1:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi all, > > > > I'm planning paint my boat's deck in stages, roll and tip. I've chosen Kiwi > Grip for the non-skid. Ten years ago I tried a two part primer and Interlux > Perfection and painted the transom only. I picked a day with too much heat > and the sun hit the transom each afternoon so I had to grind/sand that off > and recoat. I ended up using Brightside and it looked very professional but > is now showing some problems after ten years. > > > > I just tried Pettit EZpoxy for the first time on a helm seat. Same price as > Interlux but flows out better and easier. The paint went on easy and looks > great. The primer, EZ Prime, stinks more than the finish coat, EZ Poxy but > the smell goes away once the paint dries. Nothing stinks as much as Bilge > Coat which I find smells for days so I'd like to avoid Brightside which is a > close cousin. > > > > Two part paints are supposed to last longer but they cost more and I want to > avoid all the carcinigens and eternal mixing of two part primer, two part > finish coat, two part flattener. > > > > Any opinions out there, Pettit vs Interlux or some other system? > > > > Chuck S, Resolute 1990 C&C 34R > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
