I believe International Interdeck is a one part polyurethane just like
brightside. I recall interdeck came with the abrasive medium already added.
In areas on Alianna’s deck where non dkid was required i simply masked
those areas off and added the international non skip product to brightside.
Then after than cure i removed the masking tape and painted the smooth
areas with the same color brightside with no nonskid added. Be sure to stir
well after adding the nonskid powder and wait about 15 minutes before
applying. Keep it well stirred during the painting process and mix measured
amounts of each batch you prepare

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:41 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Imzadi and Belle are two of the three boats on which I’ve seen the deck
> painted with Interdeck in the past three years. The first was my friend’s
> Tartan 37. On the recommendation of the guy who does most of the work on
> Imzadi and after seeing the Tartan a year after being painted I used it on
> my 38. After another year I did my 25. I had originally considered doing
> the deck s with Kiwi Grip.
>
>
>
> Interdeck is a 1 part paint. About $40 a quart at West Marine. Unlike
> Petit deck paint you can’t tint Interdeck for color match. The off white
> looked to be a good match for the faded smoke white, but turned out to be a
> little brighter white. On Imzadi, the non-skid got painted and the flat
> parts of the deck, cockpit bulkheads, and house were not painted. After two
> summer, I don’t notice the difference any more.
>
>
>
> On Belle, the gelcoat where the house meets the fore deck was pretty warn
> by 44 years of use. Patches of gelcoat were essentially gone and you could
> see sunlight through the laminate from the inside, and amber blotches in
> the deck. We used Interdeck with the Interlux non-skid additive on the
> non-skid (which is almost everything on a 25) and Interdeck without
> non-skid on the cockpit bulkhead and vertical surfaces.
>
>
>
> I was surprised at how easy prep was. Wash good with deck cleaner and a
> stiff brush. Wash again with  Comet and a stiff brush. Rinse thoroughly and
> let dry. Paint the first coat.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *CHARLES
> SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 1, 2019 1:53 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Stus-List painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Pettit
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I'm planning paint my boat's deck in stages, roll and tip.  I've chosen
> Kiwi Grip for the non-skid.  Ten years ago I tried a two part primer and
> Interlux Perfection and painted the transom only.  I picked a day with too
> much heat and the sun hit the transom each afternoon so I had to grind/sand
> that off and recoat.  I ended up using Brightside and it looked very
> professional but is now showing some problems after ten years.
>
>
>
> I just tried Pettit EZpoxy for the first time on a helm seat.  Same price
> as Interlux but flows out better and easier.  The paint went on easy and
> looks great.  The primer, EZ Prime, stinks more than the finish coat, EZ
> Poxy but the smell goes away once the paint dries.  Nothing stinks as much
> as Bilge Coat which I find smells for days so I'd like to avoid Brightside
> which is a close cousin.
>
>
>
> Two part paints are supposed to last longer but they cost more and I want
> to avoid all the carcinigens and eternal mixing of two part primer, two
> part finish coat, two part flattener.
>
>
>
> Any opinions out there, Pettit vs Interlux or some other system?
>
>
>
> Chuck S, Resolute 1990 C&C 34R
> _______________________________________________
>
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