Superlube will NOT work.

I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points.  That is, before I crimp
a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel.  Then I coat the ring
connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to a
terminal block, breaker, or whatever.

My buddy and I have about 40 years of collective experience in marine
electrical.  Neither of us has ever had a corrosion related failure on any
connection coated with TefGel.

TefGel is also a good dissimilar metal corrosion coating.  We use it, or
threadlocker, on any stainless into aluminum fastening.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:24 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
> Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
> surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
> Wade
> Oh Boy C&C 33 MKII
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative,
>> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems
>> TefGel (
>> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
>> and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
>>
>> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're
>> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate
>> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your engine.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> thanks you.
>>>
>>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
>>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the
>>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
>>> with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
>>> banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical
>>> stuff so be specific if you can.
>>>
>>> Wade
>>> Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
>>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
>>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>>>>
>>>> — Fred
>>>>
>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Clean all the ground connections.
>>>>
>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>>>>> electrical issue du jour.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
>>>>> system.  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5
>>>>> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>>>>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>>>>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days 
>>>>> out
>>>>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>>>>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>>>>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>>>>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>>>>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to 
>>>>> Bat
>>>>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>>>>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>>>>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>>>>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>>>>> the engine.
>>>>>
>>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand
>>>>> new 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight
>>>>> then left for a few more days on the water.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see
>>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks.
>>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>>>>> both batteries.
>>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>>>>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>>>>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>>>>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>>>>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>>>>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>>>>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>>>>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>>>>> slowly.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>>>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>>>>> appreciate any suggestions
>>>>>
>>>>> Wade
>>>>> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>> _______________________________________________
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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