Even better, get something like these for ship’s ground instead of the engine:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-PowerBar-BusBar/dp/B00H8L5AKE
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Power-Connnector/dp/B000K2IKZA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=blue+sea+power&qid=1565728515&s=gateway&sr=8-1


Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 3:38 PM
To: Wade Glew <wadeg...@gmail.com>
Cc: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com>; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

Wade,

The main and most troublesome grounding point on my 33-2 was the stud on the 
engine behind the starter motor.    My suggestion (also) is to start there.   
All clean, corrosion free and solid contact.  This was my first trouble spot 
and most impactful.

Dave.
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 13, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Wade Glew 
<wadeg...@gmail.com<mailto:wadeg...@gmail.com>> wrote:
thanks you.

Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
 if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the batteries 
back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin with.  Then 
each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery banks come to 
the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with electrical stuff so be specific 
if you can.

Wade
Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough current to 
crank is another, and definitely something that will be adversely affected by 
bad ground continuity.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Clean all the ground connections.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my electrical 
issue du jour.

Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.  Bank 1 
(house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years old.  Bank 2 
is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my batteries pretty well and 
the system seemed to be operating normally.  I have a True Charge 40 battery 
charger.   One morning after several days out sailing, drinking lots of cold 
beer from the fridge and lots of music playing) and running the engine very 
little, the engine would not start.  Starter turned slow, felt like no battery 
power.  I had the Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at 
which point all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped working altogether. 
 Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V 
with estimated time on battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable 
battery pack onto my starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  
However, powering up the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery 
allowed me to start the engine.

I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new 1000 
cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then left for a 
few more days on the water.

Now, the current circumstance is this.
When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal 
charging voltages to both battery banks.
When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to both 
batteries.
After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are resting at 
about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link 20.  When I try to 
start the engine it feels again like I have low battery power.  The engine 
barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1 or ALL and won't start. 
 If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V electrical activity on the boat 
instantly stops.  If I put the portable battery pack onto my starter battery 
with the switch in the ALL position, the engine will go however, it still feels 
like the starter is turning too slowly.

I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the system 
has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would appreciate 
any suggestions

Wade
Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II
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