My 25 still has the aluminum frame windows. I use the same MD Building products 
EPDM weatherstripping cited by Dennis – bought at Lowes. A box is about $20, 
IIRC, and is enough to do 4 portlights. I took a smaple of my old spline to a 
local glass shop that repairs storm doors (which must have plastic – not glass 
– windows. They matched the old spline, at a cost somewhere in the range of 
$0.25 per foot. Installation of the replacement portlights take around 20-30 
minutes per portlight. I need to do it again – it has been something like 
10years since they were last replaced (with no leaks, BTW.

 

Whatever you do, don’t bother trying to R&R/reseal the metal frames. They are 
bedded in butyl and have never leaked on my 45 year old boat.

 

I replaced the aluminum portlights on my 38 with opening ports, as mentioned by 
another lister. The increased ventilation is a real benefit, but the project 
was a PITA. I bought ports with the same nominal dimensions as the portlights – 
27”x7” I think. But the cutout for the ports required removing about 5/16” of 
glass all around the cutout for the portlight. The opening ports have and inner 
and outer frame that ate boated through the cabin side, but the inner and outer 
skins of the cabin in the location of the portlights are not bonded together or 
cored. So I had to laminate a frame/spacer between the inner and outer skins to 
allow mounting of the port. All in all, I guess I spent 8 or 10 hours on each 
port, spread out over 3 or 4 days to allow for cutting, fitting, laminating, 
curing, and installing.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 1:35 PM
To: CnClist <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

 

Evan,

 

Replacing the lenses in the aluminum frames is straightforward.  I do it every 
7-8 years on my 35-1.  I cut the lenses myself from acrylic I get from 
mcmaster.com <http://mcmaster.com> .

 

First, the inner seal is simply D-shaped EDPM weatherstripping that can be 
found at Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart.  MD Building Products and Frost King 
make it.  Amazon sells it also.  Look for MD Building Products 1025 
weatherstripping.

 

Clean the sealing surface on the aluminum frames and stick the adhesive side to 
the frame.  Insert the lens.  Wet the spline with soapy water and use a wooden 
dowel or similar to push the spline in place.

 

You can buy universal spline on amazon much cheaper than the spline sold by 
Holland.  I used C.R. Laurence CRL gray 15/32 Wide glazing spline.  However, 
that spline was a bit hard to insert.  It worked but it was a bit of a pain.  

 

I suspect there are better spline/gasket alternatives out there.  The first 
time I replaced them, I used the spline from Holland.  It worked very well.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 11:11 AM Evan Kane via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and 
the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass. 

I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at relatively 
large expense. 

The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but recommended 
picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 ft roll), but I 
can’t tell which would work best. 

What is the list using for replacement spline?

Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for sealing 
the plexi to the frame?

Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my first 
post (likely of many)

Evan



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