I have a in-hull transducer for depth and I don’t experience any issues. The 
only problem that you may see is if the liquid (antifreeze) in the body 
evaporates or leaks. But adding a few cubic cm3 of AF helps immediately. This 
is a question of checking it before leaving on a trip or standard periodic 
maintenance.

My system is Garmin GPSMAP 420s with an Arimar P79 transducer.

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Doug Welch via CnC-List
Sent: 30 October, 2019 09:43
To: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Doug Welch <doug.we...@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Advice on replacing 33-2 BandG 32mm transducer with 
Airmar 52mm transducer

Thanks Josh,
      I am doing the work over the winter layup in Toronto so days above 5 
degrees that epoxy requires to cure can be few and far between. I am hoping to 
skip filling the existing hole with thickened epoxy by using an appropriately 
sized plug on the hold saw.  To answer your questions, I am just going with 
temp and depth as it's simpler, less expensive and gives me sonar on the same 
transducer. I know having a speed transducer is useful for determining current, 
however I would rather have the sonar (for anchoring not fishing). A friend has 
a shoot through the hull depth transducer on his boat and it seems very flakey. 
He sails in Georgian Bay where shoals and rocks abound, his transducer always 
seems to give up when we need it most.


Cheers,

Doug


On Wednesday, October 30, 2019, 09:23:59 a.m. EDT, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As I understand it, that location forward of the keel was expected by the 
designers to be the location for the speed and depth transducers.  As such the 
hull is solid in that location.

If you drill it out and find otherwise then a typical removing of the core 
while leaving the inner and outer skins in place would be appropriate.  Dig the 
core back as far as possible.  With a 52mm hole, angling a drill bit and other 
various implements should be pretty easy.  Back fill the cavity with thickened 
epoxy, allow to cure, and redrill the 52mm hole as needed.  Install the 
transducer with 5200.

You will most likely find that the original was bedded with 5200 and will not 
come free.  There are products available that are supposed to loosen/weaken 
5200.  Try them first but it may still take days of soaking.  If that fails 
then a sanding drum on a drill can make pretty short work of the plastic and 
5200.  For the new hole, a hole saw typically needs the drill bit to center and 
stabilize the drum but with a 32mm hole already there it can be difficult.  
Create a stabilizing core by getting a hole saw that fits the existing hole 
(either in the hull or in the existing transducer fitting) and drill a plug 
from a 2x4.  Now change the saw to your 52mm and slide the wood plug over the 
drill bit.  The plug will act as a centering guide as you drill the new hole.  
Depending on the size of the old fittings this may be sufficient and 
pre-removal may be unnecessary.

I find biological growth to fowl my speedwheel constantly during the summer 
months.  I'm frequently removing the speedwheel with the boat in the water 
resulting in a small geyser.  To avoid this I am seriously considering an 
ultrasonic speed sensor.  Have you considered this yourself?  I would like even 
more if I could find one that was able to be glued to the inner hull and simply 
shoot through.  I know some depth transducers are made this way but speed is a 
different story.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 8:55 AM Doug Welch via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
It's time to replace the B and G Network Quad instruments on my 33-2. This 
means replacing the old 32 mm paddle wheel speed transducer with a 52 mm airmar 
transducer. I understand that the 33-2 is partially cored hull, so my question 
is the area where the transducers are currently located cored. They are located 
in the locker at the foot of the vberth. Any other advice on removing the old 
and installing the new is gratefully received. I went with a Garmin Echomap 
plus cv75 and sonar,depth, temperature transducer.

Cheers,
Doug Welch
Celtic Knot
33-2 c/b
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