Thanks again for the comments. I've got an order of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on the way and will use that as I tighten the bolts as most have suggested.
Looking forward to finishing these projects and begin sailing again -- might even try to make the Fla Randevu if it works out. Fair Winds . . .. Jim Hesketh Whisper C&C 29 Coconut Grove, FL On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 4:36 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I had a fellow competitor drift into me on a no-wind day and the tall bow > of his large boat bent the toe rail, just forward of the joint between the > two halves. I took it off – about 50 bolt/nut/washer combinations. A local > shop put it on their 20x20 flat table and straightened it and I put it back > on with a fresh strip of butyl. No leaks – It was not fun taking it off, as > access is not the best (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in > the Vee berth area, it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and > no leaks. I doubt you would need the 5200. > > > > Gary > > > > *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> *On Behalf Of *James > Hesketh via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 7:39 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing > > > > Thank you all for the helpful responses. > > > > I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the > boat 5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the > inner perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200 > had now degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure. > > > > My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has > had an affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is > weeping out and dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be > an impossible job to remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never > thought to check the bolt tightness before it being mentioned in your > replies; they are almost all finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the > settling of the deck due to the loss of the original deck/hull sealant. I > haven't seen any weeping of the sealant between the toerail and deck > > > > I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have > all deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time > to tackle this. > > > > I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R&R > of the rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl > into the hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them > properly, and back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if > needed (and redo that every few years as needed). > > > > Thoughts . . .? > > > > Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the > bulkheads for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain > plates went through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch > where it had deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch > slider and cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I > do enjoy sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be > good for another few decades. > > > > Thanks again, > > Jim > > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe > rail design by 1988 or so: > > > > > https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no > > > > I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of > the 'sandwich' in the older ones. > > > > Ken H. > > > > On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.” > > > > The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well > engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several hundred of > us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail > or hull to deck join is near single digits. > > > > Basically the joint (from bottom to top) is as follows: Inward facing > flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull > flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe > rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine > screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. > Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the > seal. > > > > If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) > you can see a cross section of the joint. > > > > In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly > be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a > full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside > edge of the toe rail to deck joint. > > > > Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw > in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can > result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful > not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of > the joint. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 > > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *James > Hesketh via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing > > > > I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will > also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can > tie off the headsail halyard to it. > > > > Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? > > > > TIA > > Jim Hesketh > > Whisper C&C 26 > > Miami, FL > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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