I had a fellow competitor drift into me on a no-wind day and the tall bow of his large boat bent the toe rail, just forward of the joint between the two halves. I took it off – about 50 bolt/nut/washer combinations. A local shop put it on their 20x20 flat table and straightened it and I put it back on with a fresh strip of butyl. No leaks – It was not fun taking it off, as access is not the best (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in the Vee berth area, it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and no leaks. I doubt you would need the 5200.
Gary From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of James Hesketh via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 7:39 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing Thank you all for the helpful responses. I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the boat 5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the inner perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200 had now degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure. My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has had an affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is weeping out and dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be an impossible job to remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never thought to check the bolt tightness before it being mentioned in your replies; they are almost all finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the settling of the deck due to the loss of the original deck/hull sealant. I haven't seen any weeping of the sealant between the toerail and deck I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have all deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time to tackle this. I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R&R of the rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl into the hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them properly, and back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if needed (and redo that every few years as needed). Thoughts . . .? Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the bulkheads for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain plates went through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch where it had deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch slider and cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I do enjoy sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be good for another few decades. Thanks again, Jim On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe rail design by 1988 or so: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of the 'sandwich' in the older ones. Ken H. On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.” The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several hundred of us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail or hull to deck join is near single digits. Basically the joint (from bottom to top) is as follows: Inward facing flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the seal. If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) you can see a cross section of the joint. In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside edge of the toe rail to deck joint. Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of the joint. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of James Hesketh via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: James Hesketh <jameshesk...@gmail.com <mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com> > Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can tie off the headsail halyard to it. Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? TIA Jim Hesketh Whisper C&C 26 Miami, FL _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 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