I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing to get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to start every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than before disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far as I can tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find a YouTube for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident when the water pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same since, so I suspect that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that would affect starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth further disassembly? Thanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT
> On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard > questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the > problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. > > The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to the > previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was the > fuel petcock beneath the tank. It > seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the engine > was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the bits of > water flying about it was not so discernable. > > The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the > lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and > out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the > reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of the > water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. Without > the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into the water > were escaping unmuffled. > > These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly apparent > once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these little marvels > actually work. And also carefully observing the engine while running on > land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things I should not have > be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes are correct and I > will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck with a > still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to spend on > “funner” things. > Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… > > David F. Risch > (401) 419-4650 > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
