Often times the fuel filter is in the connection to the tank or actually attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. They make acetylene torch tip cleaners that are micro fine round files. They work very well for cleaning the jets. As you use the files, you can feel a dramatic difference between the gunk/varnish and the bronze/brass metal of the fuel jets.
Torch tip Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014D1M62G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C-x.DbQNPP74P Carburetor Adjustment Tool, 9 Piece Carb Adjusting Turn-Up Screwdriver Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N363CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bby.Db47EQT6E If you have any adjustment screws they may help with the performance. In the case of a single screw it is the minimum butterfly position primarily used for ensuring that a bare minimum of air makes it into the engine during starting. Once the engine starts, the governor and throttle will counter act on one another to adjust the butterfly to maintain air and fuel mix and subsequently engine speed. Depending on the engine and carb this screw may continue to control the minimum idle speed. This single screw also ensures that the butterfly doesn't get jammed shut. If you have more than 1 screw it is most likely that you have a total of 3. 1 is off by itself and acts as the minimum butterfly position as described above. The other 2 will be found together and act as the min throttle fuel adjust and the max throttle fuel adjust. Min throttle is always flowing fuel so it will affect the idle speed and the max throttle fuel mix. Every time you touch the min throttle fuel screw you will probably have to revisit the idle speed screw and the max throttle screw. Before I begin making adjustments, I like to document where I am when I start. I slowly count the turns clockwise on all screws until they lightly stop. I write the three numbers down as reference settings. Then I reset all 3 screws to their as found position. If you have absolutely no good idea where the screws should be then start each of them one turn open (counterclockwise) from full shut (clockwise). Most of these engines require a choke when cold and a full throttle for starting. This primes the engine and ensures that the fuel lines, fuel bowl, and carb are full of fuel. The choke ensures a rich A/F mix for cold starting. If a priming bulb exists then pumping the bulb until it is full of fuel for a few pumps primes the engine as well. When pulling the cord, after the first sputter you can take the choke to half (if it has one) or off if it doesn't. Keep full throttle and retry the pull start. If it won't start then verify spark. Since full throttle is being applied, tweaking open the max fuel screw a 1/4 turn at a time will admit more fuel. If it still doesn't start then it suggests a clog in the high throttle fuel path. Once it starts, run it at full/elevated throttle for a few minutes to warm up the engine. You know it is warm when you can take the choke all the way off and the engine surges up instead of dogging down. This does assume that the fueling is already close. If it is way off then an unchoked operation may not yet be possible. Now you can start the real fuel adjustments. Release the throttle and see if it stays running. If it starts to die then goose the throttle enough to keep it running. If it is slow to respond then open the min fuel screw slightly until the response is no longer sluggish. Once the response is no longer sluggish you can tweak the minimum idle screw such that it just barely keeps the engine going smooth and even. Goose the engine again to ensure no sluggishness. If needed repeat. At this point definitely make sure that the choke is off. Once the minimum throttle fuel and idle speed screws are adjusted then you can move on to the max throttle fuel screw. Attempt to slowly raise throttle until full (WOT). If the engine dogs down along the way then it may be getting too much fuel. Tweak closed on the max throttle fuel screw and see if it improves. If it doesn't dog down and you can get to full throttle then hold it there and attempt to tweak the max fuel screw open. The RPM should climb. Continue until the point where it begins to die and then turn back closed until max RPM. Recheck all settings by releasing the throttle and letting it idle, make sure that it doesn't die. Then goose it a few times to make sure that it is not sluggish. Then full throttle to make sure that it doesn't dog down. This works for all types of small engine equipment. The only thing tricky about marine engines is that these settings need to be finalized in the water with a load. If any of the adjustments don't work then look at that part of the carb for clogs of debris or varnish. Lots of carbs have Welsh plugs with ports, orifices and screens hidden behind. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Dec 20, 2019, 3:23 PM David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > No fuel filter. I found some discussions on boards ( > https://forums.ybw.com/index.php?threads/suzuki-df-2-5-wont-keep-running.455819/) > about issues and some have added a fuel filter to the fuel line. One guy > cleaned the carburetor 6 times before he finally got it to work right. > Others agreed that the tiny fuel jets in this system are prone to partial > plugging with debris and it is very challenging to clean it out. I will > probably remove the carburetor (since I know how to do it now) again and > use more carb cleaner and more pressurized air to try to get at those tiny > passageways for fuel. Fishing line was suggested so I will try that. I was > not very vigorous in my first attempt. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 11:06 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Simple stuff first. My generator ran then shut down a minute later. Even > though the fuel filter “looked” OK. Replaced it and spark plug and > vrooomm…110 to spare. > > *David F. Risch* > *(401) 419-4650* > > *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> *On Behalf Of *David > Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, December 20, 2019 10:43 AM > *To:* CnC discussion list CnC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Outboard Fic-x Follow-Up... > > I had my first rebuilding experience with my aging Suzuki 2.5 this month. > I decided to do a carburetor rebuild as the motor was not starting or > running well. Thanks to the wonders of the internet, I found several > YouTube videos describing the process. I found it to be pretty > straightforward to disassemble and reassemble. To my surprise, it looked > really clean inside with no obvious problem areas. I used carb cleaner and > replaced a few gaskets, new spark plug, put it back together. Then I > disassembled the lower unit and greased and replaced gaskets and impeller > there. I added lube and tried to start it. I took many many pulls to > finally get it to start, and I was willing to write that off to needing to > get fuel through an empty system. To my dismay, it was very hard to start > every time I shut it down, even when fairly warm (harder than before > disassembly). So I did not improve its performance at all as far as I can > tell. I did not disassemble the cylinder head and did not find a YouTube > for that adventure. The motor did have an overheat incident when the water > pump failed a few years ago and has never run the same since, so I suspect > that is part of the problem, but I can’t see how that would affect > starting. Anyone have suggestions on whether it is worth further > disassembly? Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <image001.png> > > > On Dec 20, 2019, at 9:48 AM, David Risch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > A few months ago I reached out to you folks with some mystery outboard > questions. . Thank you to those who reached out. After solving the > problems I thought would share as to what were the problems and solutions. > > The dripping fuel was not from some mysterious, unobtainium (according to > the previous overpaid and underperforming mechanic) needle valve. It was > the fuel petcock beneath the tank. It > seems it was always dripping (bummer) but only obvious to me when the > engine was raised and dripping into the boat. When underway with all the > bits of water flying about it was not so discernable. > > The “dry exhaust” noise was actually a missing (actually it fell into the > lower leg) gasket which surrounds the gear shift leg which protrudes up and > out of the lower drive leg. When put in reverse the leg engages (up) the > reverse bracket lock that prevent the engine from reversing itself out of > the water. You should see it midway up on the front side of the leg. > Without the gasket the exhaust gasses which normally flow down and out into > the water were escaping unmuffled. > > These seemingly mysterious problems and their causes became quickly > apparent once I started pulling things apart and figuring out how these > little marvels actually work. And also carefully observing the engine > while running on land. Lesson learned that although I can fix most things > I should not have be so hesitant with the outboards. And I know my fixes > are correct and I will not be cursing the mechanic next spring while stuck > with a still-not-running-right kicker. And have another boat buck to > spend on “funner” things. > Oh and replacing the impellor is not so hard either… > > *David F. Risch* > *(401) 419-4650* > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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