Raymond; I am quoting from instructions given to me by Dave Godwin of 
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2019/
from Dave...."Windows are quite new. Three out of four of the old fixed ports 
were onlyaround 18 years old and not in too bad of condition. They could have 
beenpolished up to look nice. But I went to a lot of trouble to fix the 
areasaround the ports (the inset surface and all stress cracks…) so I wasn’t 
goingto put old windows back in. Clean foot, dirty sock, etc., etc… Four new 
fixed ports; take out the old windows and send them to Maritime Plastics of 
Annapolis; Company is Annapolis Maritime Plastics, (410) 263-4424. They will 
duplicate them;
 For the installation I used the much discussed 3M VHB tape method. I hadused 
the old style, just squirted in sealant method in the past and vowed neverto do 
that again. Of course, those were pre-VHB days. The actual installation was 
quite simple and fairly easy. After taping theedges, inside and out, I used 
strips of tape off the top to create a hinge,allowing the port to swing down 
into its correct position vis-a-vis the sealantgap all around. Prior to 
applying the VHB tape, I cleaned all the surfaces well with aclean rag and a 
50/50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water. No mineral spirts oracetone... I ran 
the 1” VHB tape around the inset and trimmed the excess (the insetis around 
3/4”, give or take…) before gently putting the port in place. Somemomentary 
constant pressure around the edges and that was it. There was some talk about 
spraying the inside edge of the fixed port blackto obscure the lighter 
background/irregularities but given that the VHB tape isblack but it made no 
sense to me. With the VHB tape trimmed to the edge all yousee inside the 
plastic is a nice black line provided by the VHB tape. After doing that I ran 
black silicone caulk around the edges, wiped itwith a wet finger and that was 
all she wrote. Pulled the masking tape andsurface protection tape. If you 
decide to do this here are some tips: Watch a really good video on the entire 
process. Buy yourself a good caulk gun. Makes a huge difference in metering 
theflow and is easy on the hand. One of my better tool purchases in light of 
usingthe old cheap painting ones. Good caulk. The stuff I used was like 
pudding, very smooth and loose. Itwent in easily and more importantly, didn't 
start to form a skim coat thesecond it came out of the tube. There was enough 
working time to run a bead allthe way around (one port…) and then come back to 
smooth it out. If you ever decide to do this, I hope it helps. New ports really 
standout. Regards,Dave List of items: Sealant:  SCS200 Silpruf sealant. - link. 
Two tubes were the precise amountrequired for our ports.From McMaster-Carr:VHB 
tape:  3M VHB Tape, Adhesive both sides. - link. Again, two 15’ rolls were 
exactly enough tape.Caulk gun 
I did my windows per Dave's instructions and am very happy wioth the 
results...after one year; let me know if you need more; al;so give us an update 
on your progress...!


Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Raymond Macklin <ray.mack...@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2020 3:06 pm
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 WINDOW REPLACEMENT CHALLENGE

Ok everyone.  I am stepping up and finally going to replace my windows. I am 
open to any information or suggestions.  I was thinking of replacing them with 
aluminum frame windows.  Any thoughts or guidance with this project.  All input 
is appreciated.
ThanksRay MacklinLakeHouseMilwaukee WI
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