Yeah I just double checked, scheduled 40 is what I was picturing and what
was used by my yard.  As an alternative you could use black polyethylene
tubing.  The tubing is a much less robust method.  Whatever you choose hold
it in place with large aluminum rivets.  Spaced every 18 to 24 inches
should be fine.  The conduits should be offset to either side of
centerline.  This allows space for the centerline fasteners you mentioned.

FYI, I did not move forward with a windex light since my tri-color lights
the windex nicely - Not so much if I use my deck lights but... Generally if
my deck lights are on its cause I'm motoring and don't so much need the
windex.

Aqua signal makes very reliable LED spreader lights to which I finally
conceded buying.  Love 'em.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk

There are three reasons for ground connections.  AC/DC electrical ground,
RF ground, and lightning protection.  As a subtopic you can put corrosion
protection/anodes under the AC/DC electrical ground topic.  In the case of
the mast, I was most concerned about lightning protection.  I had a poor
condition and low gauge wire that went between the mast step and a nut that
was welded to the side of a keel washer.  I figured if electricity attached
the nut to the washer it was probably a pretty good bet that lightning
could detach it.  Besides that the mast was not actually connected
electrically.  I upgraded to a very heavy gauge wire though I can't
remember exactly what gauge....the conductor portion was probably close to
1/2 inch diameter.  The lugs on each end were sized for 3/8ths bolts.  I
threaded a location on the forward edge of the mast below the floor boards
and still high enough to allow flex in the wire.  The bolt threads through
the mast to create a stud on the leading edge.  A washer and nylock holds
the wire to the front of the mast.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xm6F_rWkSshgODEgy73XzvMbqBqN51Zm/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1swt-YhMMw6wNtrIbq1FDJOewMxHemre6/view?usp=drivesdk

Originally I was going to drill and tap a keel bolt but when the tap broke
in the hole I was left looking for other options.  I ended up making a
large ground tab to which I could bolt the wire.  The tab was made of 1/4
inch thick aluminum bar stock, 3 inches wide ND about 12 inches long.  I
made a hole large enough to fit a keel bolt and fit it under a keel
washer.  Lots of tefgel to prevent corrosion.

You can see the tab sticking out from under the step in this picture.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12yd7pvdLFFe2LLBFcVN1QC3ce80ie4sc/view?usp=drivesdk

Here is the link to my entire archive of mast project pics.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm

Also consider replacing the masthead sheaves.  While the mast is down.
Zepherworks is the guy to talk to.

Consider replacing the topping lift too.

I think I answered all the questions.  Just let me know if you have more.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 19:13 Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh,  Yes a windex light, masthead tricolor/anchor light and
> NEMA2000 wind instruments are all part of the plan. Deck and steaming
> lights at the spreader along with the radar too. Hadn’t considered a wifi
> antenna but I have plenty of plenum cat6 around so I’ll include that - good
> suggestion.
>
> I take it that you would attach the conduit to the front of the mast?  I
> was visualizing of tucking it toward the back. I’ll need to check how much
> space there is around the spreader support bar. There are also through
> bolts where the stays attach too.
> The schedule 40 pvc conduit That is readily available is probably overkill
> for this application and the joints add thickness.  Need to see what else I
> can find...
>
> For bonding, currently the mast sits in an aluminum step that has a keel
> bold going through It with a washer and nut under the center of the mast.
> Is that sufficient?  Would you recommend a ground strap in there too?  My
> DC system is bonded to the engine but not to the keel as far as I know.  I
> don’t use up zincs too quickly so I haven’t been tempted to change anything.
>
> Thanks, Nathan
>
> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Conduit is the only professional way to go.
>
> You will be limited by the space in front of the spreader bars that
> support the spreaders.  I would use standard thin wall pvc no needs for
> anything thick and maximize the diameter.  If you're going to do it then
> make it the best you can for the next guy... Who knows it might be you!
>
> Yes a second conduit makes sense especially if you are ever going to have
> a mast mounted radar.
>
> This is exactly how the yard did my mast when they rebuilt it.
>
> While you are in there consider spreader lights, long range wifi (cat-6),
> windex light, and NMEA2000
>
> You may also want to evaluate the current bonding situation for the mast.
>
> I can give additional pointers or advice if desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 18:30 Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical
>> wiring in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the
>> time to do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to
>> reduce noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C&C 34 with a keel
>> stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
>> are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
>> (power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
>> separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>>
>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>>
>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>>
>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties
>> are definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that
>> I see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
>> the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
>> the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
>> required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
>> the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
>> relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
>> most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
>> for that.
>>
>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits -
>> one to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
>> having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>>
>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
>> thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
>> effort for the conduit worth it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Nathan Post
>> S/V Wisper
>> 1981 C&C 34 CB
>> Lynn MA, USA
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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