Hi Mike,

Mine was in the V berth, too much of a run and produced almost no heat. Yours 
is way closer to the engine. I want to remove it because i found that when 
motoring, the engine heats the cabin to a "comfortable temperature". And it 
takes precious space.

I understand your setup, cleaner design and probably better performance with no 
Tees and shorter circuit. But you have a loop. I want to know if the hoses that 
go to the heater can be dead ends ?


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc


________________________________
De : Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Envoyé : 8 juin 2020 09:46
À : 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc : Bruno Lachance <bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>
Objet : RE: Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass


Hi Bruno



We installed a bus heater (what you described) on Persistence.  We already had 
a hot water heater so we simply had the hose that ran from the exchanger go to 
the bus heater and then from there to the hot water heater.  No Tees of any 
sort.  Did not affect the hot water heater adversely and works well for heating 
on cool fall days and for deliveries.  Only issue would be that increased hose 
runs and number of fittings increases chance of a coolant leak at some point



The bus heater on persistence is on the forward end of the quarter berth 
blowing toward nav station. Layout of Frers 33 is pretty much identical to your 
C&C 33-2.  This location also makes the bus heater close to engine and shortens 
the length of hos run as much as possible



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

1987 Frers 33

Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com





From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Bruno Lachance via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 8, 2020 10:41 AM
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruno Lachance <bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cooling system and water heater bypass





Hi,



I just remove a air heater that was nstalled by premious owner. It was T in the 
coolant hoses going to the water heater but never woeked well. I guess the 
hoses running in the bilges was too much of a heat loss.



So anyways, i'm going back to original and simplicity and i remember somebody 
here said he added valves to have the option to "bypass" the water heater in 
case of a leak. Since i already have the valves and my tank is original it 
seems to be a good idea. My question is: can i just install them in line on 
each hose or do i need to add a loop before the valves with T fittings , engine 
side of the valves, so i still have circulation. I think it does't matter and 
that the engine system does not depend on this but i want to be sure.



Thank you.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc


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