I used Six10 on my keel joint at West's recommendation. Haven't hauled yet to see how it has held up, but it seemed to work well enough. A bit difficult to work with, but I don't have much experience with epoxy. I use it without the mixing nozzles for small jobs, including some holes in the deck, but I noticed it is still not quite thick enough to prevent levelling out, so I had to tape a plastic piece over the top to keep it flush with the deck.
-- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > There is a West equivalent to the Thixo Flex. Also fits in a caulking > gun. I believe it is 610. Same nozzles.A couple bucks more, but available > most places that sell West. > > Joel > > On Wed, Feb 17, 2021 at 10:08 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Learned these things the hard way: >> >> The *3M heavy duty shipping tape* is a great product and available >> everywhere and doesn't leave a residue like duct tape. After the epoxy >> cures, it peels right off and will leave the final surface smooth. >> >> If you use *404 High Density Filler* instead of 406, you'll find it is >> heavier than air and doesn't blow around like 406. The same when sanding, >> the dust falls instead of blowing into your lungs or onto the neighbor's >> boat. >> >> A small *wet vac* is a must on the boat for any of this work. I like a >> 6 gallon with big strong motor like 4.5HP peak and I add the extra long >> hose. I glued a piece of carpet to the bottom so it doesn't scuff the deck >> or cabin sole. I keep a paper bag in it and I can position the machine in >> the middle of the boat and reach from bow to stern. Be mindful where the >> exhaust is pointed. >> >> Another great product I started using is *Thixo Flex*, a flexible epoxy >> in a caulking cartridge from Jamestown Distributers. It provides a 45 >> minute working time and there's much less waste. The two parts mix in the >> nozzle and when you're done, you release the trigger and let the product >> cure in the nozzle tip. When you want to use it later, just change the >> nozzle and start again. Extra nozzles are cheap. >> >> Chuck S >> >> >> >> On 02/17/2021 9:17 AM Matthew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> >> >> Ron: >> >> >> >> I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may >> try the 3M mailing tape someone suggested. Also, if you are using West >> System, before you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are >> supposed to “wet” the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond. (The >> exception is cotton filler, which is not as strong but will weep epoxy into >> the surrounding area.) Wear a good filter mask when mixing colloidal >> silica. >> >> >> >> Bigger, open holes are handled differently than bolt holes. For example, >> when I replaced my deck fills last year (about a 2 inch open hole), first I >> removed some of the wood deck core exposed by the hole. I could have >> wetted the wood with a disposable paint brush -- I like the plastic >> bristles, which do not fall off during application – but instead I decided >> to tape the entire hole underneath with Gorilla tape. I then filled the >> hole with epoxy, went down below and removed the tape while using a >> container to catch the epoxy draining out, used the same epoxy for the >> colloidal silica mix, then troweled the mix back into the deck core area >> where the wood had been removed. There was no doubt about wetting the >> surface using this method. The colloidal silica mix was a mayonnaise >> consistency and did not need support underneath while it cured. When the >> mixture cured, I used one of those round sanding drums that go into your >> drill to smooth the cured surface, then installed the new deck fills. >> >> >> >> If you’re just doing bolt holes, on the other hand, no need for colloidal >> silica and all that fuss – just tape underneath and pour straight West >> System. Use the slow hardener, and MAKE SURE THE TAPE FULLY COVERS THE >> HOLE AND IS ON FIRMLY (or you will have a big mess on your hands). You’ll >> lose a little volume after the pour as the epoxy works its way into the >> wood core. I usually go back and top it off. If you lose a lot of epoxy, >> something is wrong – check the tape. If there is no leak at the tape, some >> internal communication is going on. >> >> >> >> Good luck. >> >> >> >> Matt >> >> >> >> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 17, 2021 8:16 AM >> *To:* 'Stus-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck >> >> >> >> Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with >> thickened epoxy. Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy >> for the fastener. >> >> >> >> Mike Hoyt >> >> Persistence >> >> Halifax, NS >> >> >> >> *From:* Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Sent:* February 16, 2021 7:26 PM >> *To:* Matthew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck >> >> >> >> Do you do anything special to keep the epoxy in place until you can put >> some tape under the glob? >> >> Ron >> >> Wild Cheri >> >> C&C 30-1 >> >> STL >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 01:31:10 PM CST, Matthew via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the >> track, a trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when >> the bit encounters the underside of the deck. The result is that the hole >> on the deck surface stays the same size. In addition, you know precisely >> where to place the deck fitting and drill the new hole. >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > > > -- > Joel > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
