Ron:

 

I have found that black Gorilla “duct” tape works well, although I may try the 
3M mailing tape someone suggested.  Also, if you are using West System, before 
you put in an epoxy mixture (like colloidal silica), you are supposed to “wet” 
the surrounding area first to ensure a strong bond.  (The exception is cotton 
filler, which is not as strong but will weep epoxy into the surrounding area.)  
Wear a good filter mask when mixing colloidal silica.

 

Bigger, open holes are handled differently than bolt holes.  For example, when 
I replaced my deck fills last year (about a 2 inch open hole), first I removed 
some of the wood deck core exposed by the hole.  I could have wetted the wood 
with a disposable paint brush -- I like the plastic bristles, which do not fall 
off during application – but instead I decided to tape the entire hole 
underneath with Gorilla tape.  I then filled the hole with epoxy, went down 
below and removed the tape while using a container to catch the epoxy draining 
out, used the same epoxy for the colloidal silica mix, then troweled the mix 
back into the deck core area where the wood had been removed.  There was no 
doubt about wetting the surface using this method.  The colloidal silica mix 
was a mayonnaise consistency and did not need support underneath while it 
cured.  When the mixture cured, I used one of those round sanding drums that go 
into your drill to smooth the cured surface, then installed the new deck fills.

 

If you’re just doing bolt holes, on the other hand, no need for colloidal 
silica and all that fuss – just tape underneath and pour straight West System.  
Use the slow hardener, and MAKE SURE THE TAPE FULLY COVERS THE HOLE AND IS ON 
FIRMLY (or you will have a big mess on your hands).  You’ll lose a little 
volume after the pour as the epoxy works its way into the wood core.  I usually 
go back and top it off.  If you lose a lot of epoxy, something is wrong – check 
the tape.  If there is no leak at the tape, some internal communication is 
going on.

 

Good luck. 

 

Matt

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2021 8:16 AM
To: 'Stus-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

 

Put tape on the underside to cover the holes before filling with thickened 
epoxy.  Then once cured drill appropriate sized hole in the epoxy for the 
fastener.

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: February 16, 2021 7:26 PM
To: Matthew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com <mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

 

Do you do anything special to keep the epoxy in place until you can put some 
tape under the glob?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C&C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 01:31:10 PM CST, Matthew via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 

 

 

Regarding Dennis’ comment about overbored holes being hidden by the track, a 
trick I like to use is to drill up from underneath and stop when the bit 
encounters the underside of the deck.  The result is that the hole on the deck 
surface stays the same size.  In addition, you know precisely where to place 
the deck fitting and drill the new hole.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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