I ground the exterior edges to taper toward the hole then made a correspondingly tapered patch using three (iirc- might have been four, depends on the hull thickness) layers of biaxial stitch mat. Each layer progressively larger, the largest the circumference of the ground area. I laid these up on a sheet of waxed paper, smallest on top, wetted out with epoxy, then applied it like a bandage to the prepared area. I had pre-painted the prepped area with unfilled epoxy. Once in place, a consolidating roller was used to ensure that any excess epoxy resin was displaced by glass- making for the densest possible layup. I had also prepped the interior by sanding etc. No taper. I put a large patch over that. I think two layers. This was done before the exterior had fully cured to ensure a good wet-on-wet bond. I may have skimmed a very thin layer of glass filled epoxy putty over the interior first to help prevent any small voids around the edge of the hole. The interior patch was larger and also covered the through-hull hole I intended to use, (so - stronger) and after re-boring that hole I added a reinforcing ring of glass inside, bedded in epoxy putty. I have no concern at all about the integrity of any of this stuff. The materials are amazingly strong and the work isn’t that difficult. The hull is now stronger in this area for sure. Some of the details on the blog. Best of luck.
Dave 33-2 Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 24, 2021, at 10:55 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > How many layers of glass should I be using on the outside for blocking a > through-hull? Glass on the inside also, or just fill with epoxy? Some of > mine have limited access on the inside for creating a taper. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > >> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 3:59 AM Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the >> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time. >> >> Why not eliminate the unused holes? It needs to be done properly for sure >> but it’s not difficult. >> >> Some pics here: >> >> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1 >> >> Dave >> 33-2 >> >> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
