Bronze is a relatively soft material, you should have no issues in
drilling it. Select a drill bit
that is a 1/16th smaller than the bolt diameter, use a center punch to
get the middle of the
bolt. The residual diameter will help guide the bit as you go, and is
easily broken off afterwards.
If you have enough room, you could grind the head/nut off and use a
punch to drive out the bolt
as there should be minimal corrosion holding the shaft of the bolt in
place. That's how I usually
do through hulls, as there isn't enough room to get leverage, so I just
grind the outside down to the
hull (carefully) and pop them out.
Good luck.
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30 Mk 1 - 549
On 2021-06-08 9:23 a.m., Bruno Lachance via CnC-List wrote:
I will go back to the boat later today and try again to loosen the
parts. Korbey I thought about using a torch, but honestly I'm afraid
to do it in this area with the risk of damaging the fiberglass around,
worst case cause a fire. I have not a lot of space to work around, so
I would end up eating the bronze bolt instead of the aluminum plate
when I should be doing the opposite.
I had the idea to drill out the bronze bolts and try to save the
aluminum custom part. I could easily replace the bolts by SS ones. I
liked the higher end looking bronze, but i cannot see why 316 SS would
not be fine with tefgel between the Al and SS. Is drilling bronze tricky?
I may keep this idea in the bag, but if i go forward with more
intrusive methods i will do it at the end of the season.
Other ideas still welcome, but I guess there is not magic trick out there.
Thank you.
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
Envoyé de mon iPad
Le 7 juin 2021 à 11:54, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :
Try a MAP gas torch
Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* Monday, June 7, 2021 7:52:40 AM
*To:* Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Korbey Hunt <kampf2...@hotmail.com <mailto:kampf2...@hotmail.com>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: 33-2 chainplates / galvanic corrosion problem
You may need to get more aggressive with heat. Try a MAP gas torch.
Get Outlook for Android
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*From:* Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* Monday, June 7, 2021 7:31:36 AM
*To:* Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Bruno Lachance <bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com
<mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>
*Subject:* Stus-List 33-2 chainplates / galvanic corrosion problem
Hi,
I want to remove my starboard side chainplate "assembly" for
inspection / maintenance/ sealing. The 33-2 has a unique system, with
a stainless steel part ondeck, trough bolted with bronze bolts to an
aluminum block / backing plate inside that connects to an adjustable rod.
The problem i have is the galvanic corrosion that occured between the
bronze blots and the alumimun backing plate. The thickness is maybe
around 1/2 inch and everyting is stuck together. i was able to undo
the nuts and i see the white corrosion that fused the bolts to the
aluminum block.
So far I sprayed white vinegar with water, i used some heat from a
heat gun, and a hammer with a block of hard wood. nothing happened...
Any other ideas on how to break this loose ? what are my options if i
dont want to detroy the parts or the deck!
At this point i kind of wish i never started but at this point i'm
afraid to get a leak that could damage the balsa.
i know i'm looking for a miracle, but i have faith in you!
Thank you.
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu