----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
The Lexan that's used in eye glasses certainly has UV protection. And, it is the hard coat to keep from scratching. The Lexan that I purchase does have UV protection, in the form of a coating that is on the Sunward Side of the plastic. As far as I know, it is not a hard coat. I suspect that the hard coat is not generally available on large sheets of Lexan that you can purchase from local plastic supply houses. Larry "Thompson, Doug" wrote: > ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]---- > > Thanks for the clarification, Larry. I was referring to the hard-coated > Lexan for scratch resistance. Does the coating also provide the UV > resistance to keep it from yellowing? > > >>-----Original Message----- > >>From: Larry Wilkins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 3:46 PM > >>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>Subject: Re: FW: [COUPERS] window installation > >> > >> > >>It is a good idea to use Lexan in place of the Plexiglas. It > >>is however, not harder than Plexiglas. > >>Lexan is quite soft. It can be made harder by coating it > >>with a super hard surface. That's what they > >>do with safety glasses. You get the incredible toughness of > >>the Lexan, with the scratch resistance of > >>the hard coating. Most Lexan that you can buy will not have > >>the hard coat. Thus it will scratch easier > >>than the Plexiglas. In addition, most lexan that you can buy > >>is not UV resistant. It will turn yellow > >>over time with exposure to the sun. Plexiglas is naturally > >>UV resistant, much the same as glass is. As > >>you can see, it's a crap shoot. Both materials have good > >>properties. Both have bad. In general, Lexan > >>will be much easier to work with, and you'll have much less > >>chance of breaking it. Plexiglas is hard to > >>work with, but if you do finally get it installed, it will > >>look good longer, barring any breakage. I > >>believe you have it backwards on the bending problem. Do not > >>attempt to bend the Plexiglas. It will > >>snap with little pressure. The only way to bend it is to > >>have it bent using a heated bending bar. > >>Lexan will bend, and I doubt you can break it by bending it. > >>It most likely will not hold the bend that > >>you want without using the same heat-bending process as the Plexi. > >> > >>Larry > >> > >>Larry > >> > >>"Thompson, Doug" wrote: > >> > >>> ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before > >>following any advice in this forum.]---- > >>> > >>> Subject: RE: [COUPERS] window installation > >>> > >>> Another suggestion, you may want to use Lexan in place of > >>the plexiglass. > >>> It has a harder surface (more scratch resistant) and does > >>not crack near as > >>> easily as Plexiglass. When cutting, use a saber saw with > >>orbital action or > >>> the "cut" will try to weld itself back together due to the > >>heat generated by > >>> the friction of the saw blade. A nice way to finish the > >>edges and to help > >>> reduce the chance of cracks in the future is to "touch" the > >>edges with the a > >>> propane torch flame. Just keep it moving and you'll see > >>the filed edge > >>> (finished as David describes below) go from white to clear. > >>> > >>> Bending Lexan is a little more of a challenge than > >>Plexiglass because it is > >>> MUCH tougher. You have to use heat. The upside is that > >>you probably will > >>> not crack the Lexan when drilling or inserting rivets/screws though. > >>> > >>> >>-----Original Message----- > >>> >>From: david abrams [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>> >>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 7:21 AM > >>> >>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>> >>Subject: RE: [COUPERS] window installation > >>> >> > >>> >> > >>> >>----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before > >>> >>following any advice in this forum.]---- > >>> >> > >>> >>tom woodward wrote: > >>> >>> > >>> >>> A new piece of plastic.......... about $42 > >>> >>> A sunshade with frames........about $90+ > >>> >>> The ability to do something right the first > >>time.......PRICELESS!!! > >>> >>> > >>> >>> Any ideas? > >>> >>> 2152H > >>> >> > >>> >> > >>> >>Tom, > >>> >> > >>> >>I replaced my side windows in Sep 1998. As owner, not > >>only are you > >>> >>allowed to replace the windows yourself, but you can > >>manufacture your > >>> >>own parts. I signed this all off in my airplane logs > >>using my pilot > >>> >>certificate number and the relevant FAR's referenced. > >>> >> > >>> >>I had window blanks cut to size by my local plastic dealer. > >>> >>I used the > >>> >>dimensions on the ercoupe microfilm drawing fro Bowling Green > >>> >>University. The invoice from "Plastics Etc, Inc" shows: > >>> >> > >>> >>5 pcs (I am a bit paranoid<g>) Acrylic Sheet 0.060 x 19.75 x 31.75 > >>> >> > >>> >>I paid $9.40 each blank. I used an orbital hand sander > >>with 200 grit > >>> >>paper to round the edges of the plastic blank as shown on > >>the drawing > >>> >> > >>> >>I reused the window hardware that was in acceptable shape, > >>> >>ordered new > >>> >>hardware for the top frames that had worn to a razor edge, > >>> >>and made new > >>> >>handles from "L" stock because the ones I ordered from > >>Skyport were > >>> >>poorly made. I ordered a set of plexiglas drill bits from LP > >>> >>Plastics. > >>> >>I followed the Ercoupe microfilm drawings to drill the holes > >>> >>and rivet > >>> >>the frame hardware. Warning! The rivets on the sides may > >>> >>appear to be > >>> >>way far in to the middle of the window but this is to clear > >>> >>the welts. > >>> >>I used a hand compression rivet tool. > >>> >> > >>> >>It really is not too hard a job. I also replaced my rear > >>> >>windows using > >>> >>rectangular blanks of 0.060 x 18.00 x 21.00 I used a bench > >>> >>band saw and > >>> >>a fine blade to cut them to shape using the old windows as a > >>> >>pattern. I > >>> >>ordered new hardware and used Mortite as the sealing > >>> >>material. (It is a > >>> >>modeling clay type gray material used to seal windows in > >>the winter > >>> >>around here). Be careful not to overtighten, I cracked one > >>> >>window and > >>> >>had to replace it after almost being done. I used a > >>wallpaper seam > >>> >>sealer roller to roll down the mortite before installing > >>the window. > >>> >> > >>> >>The flat windshield can also be made from flat stock (.100 > >>> >>from memory > >>> >>but I could be wrong) for less than $10 but you need an A&P > >>> >>to supervise > >>> >>and sign off to be legal. Note that the $10 blank cut to > >>shape using > >>> >>the old windshield will be a much better fit than the > >>$120 blank from > >>> >>Univair as each windshield appears to be trimmed to fit and the > >>> >>purchased blank is cut to a universal pattern. > >>> >> > >>> >>David Abrams > >>> >>http://ercoupe.com > >>> >> > >>> >> > >>> > >> > ==^================================================================ EASY UNSUBSCRIBE click here: http://topica.com/u/?aVxiLm.aVzvvT Or send an email To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] This email was sent to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] T O P I C A -- Register now to manage your mail! http://www.topica.com/partner/tag02/register ==^================================================================
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