I agree with Phillipe on this one. If you pulled the wi-fi card and it is still rebooting, then it is likely the mainboard.
The output couplers are the typical cap failure point on these. And that would not cause this problem. If you want to take a blind stab without deeper circuit testing, try replacing the conventional axial and radial electrolytics. SMD electrolytics tend to have better seal integrity than larger conventional types. The industry service life of an electrolytic properly speced should be 15-20 years. But ones sourced from a lesser quality manufacturer and occasionally even a top-tier Nichicon or Sprague have been known to fail prematurely. A complete recap of a classic is not worth the effort, IMO. The SMD ones can be a PITA to work with unless you have the right iron and an experienced touch. Youre going to invest around $20 throwing parts at a unit now worth $75, with no assurance of success. And one with enough mileage on it to requre a full recap means the display may be closer to the end than the beginning. If the unit has had any prior work done on it, double check for cold joints and overheated/lifted traces and pads. That kind of flaw can also cause intermittants and spontaneous reboots. If you can say goodbye to it and have the funds, the Touch is a decidedly better player and a more reliable one, IMO. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ sgmlaw's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=13995 View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=109765
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