Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Most switching problems in Drake gear are a result of wafer misalignment or wafer center hole wear. Making sure the switch assembly hardware is tight and properly aligned and keeping shaft bearing surfaces lubricated will correct the first and help mitigate the last.
Silver "cleaners" clean by removing, either by chemical or mechanical means, silver (di?)sulfide. This is the black stuff seen on silver items. Unfortunately, when you remove silver disulfide, you are by definition removing "some" silver. The thing is, silver disulfide is very soft, and easily displaced by the spring action of the switch contacts. You can see this by looking closely at the blackened area of a switch. You will see a bright silver line where the contact has been wiping. By the way, the black deposit is essentially as conductive as silver.
The bad news is that any chemical or mechanical abrasive that is left behind on the switch after "cleaning" continues to work.
DeoxiT is excellent at removing minute amounts of corrosion at the contact points without attacking the _thin_ silver layer, restoring electrical conductivity. Liquid DeoxiT (Was D100L under old nomenclature) is best, since you want it only on the contact area, NOT all over everything in the general area to attract and hold dust.
The only reason I see for "cleaning" switch silver is for appearance, which is perhaps important if you are competing in a concours show! The inherent hazards, not to mention the danger of "springing" or otherwise damaging small contact elements by poking around them with tools, far outweigh any positive effects.
73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta
Drake C-Line Service Manual <http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez/>
Eric Webner wrote:
Hi Joe,
Have you made any progress on your radio? I didn't see any responses on drakelist.
It seems the crystals are ok, so it must be a wire or more probably, a switch contact. The wafer switches on these radios seem to corrode a bit, with the metal parts turning black. You might be able to clean the rotary switch contacts sufficiently with De-Oxit, but I used a more thorough method on all the switches in my T-4XC. Check out http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeArticles/CleaningSwitches/CleaningSwitches.htm for details.
BTW, this web site is very well done and you will want to explore the other articles on it. Good luck.
73,
Eric KA8FAN
*/Joe Roth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/* wrote:
"Joe Roth" made an utterence to the drakelist gang ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I've added a lot of xtals to my R4C. I began to use position 11 which is now in the 3 (bottom most) row. The entire row for positions 11-15 will not work. The receiver acts as if the xtal sockets are empty. The xtal works fine in other positions. I've swapped all combinations around and I know there is a problem with the row. I looked at the obvious solder joints on the switch and traced the connections of 3 wires going to the underside of the chassis. Everything appears to be okay. I now need to get in to it deeper and trace some lines with the VOM. Does anyone have suggestions to narrow things down? TNX Joe/N4ARI www.n4ari.net
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=30648/*http://movies.yahoo.com/movies/feature/jibjabinaugural.html>
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