[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Bill,
Please don't take this wrong, and no offense to the guys here on the
reflector, but you need to find someone around you that could come over and
"Lay Hands" on this project with you that knows something about High
Voltage Power Supplies.
You can be killed or injured very easily if you really don't understand
working on this kind of equipment, the voltage and current levels in this
equipment are unforgiving when you get across them. If the person who sold
you this power supply is right and you have no bleeder resistors, you could
have a lethal charge RIGHT NOW across the filter capacitors, be very
careful, get help.
The guys on this reflector are extremely helpful, but without eye's, ears,
and hands on the unit it's difficult to really know what's going on.
John N. Hudson III, WA6HYQ.
Bill
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent by: To
[EMAIL PROTECTED] drakelist@zerobeat.net
erobeat.net cc
Subject
07/29/2008 06:32 Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
AM
Please respond to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
t.net
Evan and John,
Thanks for the responses,
I am not sure about the bleeders this is what the guy who sold me the
amp told me.
Where are the bleeders located? and as soon as the amp show up if you
could help me figure this out it and we will identify the harbach mod
and then we can see if there are any other mods that need to be done.
73
Bill
K9BUB
--- On Tue, 7/29/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Tuesday, July 29, 2008, 7:45 AM
Bill,
I'm not sure which Harbach mod(s) you are referring to. There is a
step-start for the high voltage, step-start for the filaments,
replacement rectifier and capacitor board, and which sort of determines
what else you might do.
When I rebuild supplies I replace just about everything except the
power transformer, and with components that have better ratings than
the original. One important mod is to replace the 5K 7wt resistor on
the underside of the supply with a 20 watt equivalent; your
unobtainable ALC pot will thank you for it.
I also place one or two fans on top of the supply. I use a model that
is 220v but will start and run reliably on 110v. It is so quiet you
can't hear it and it brings the case temperature down dramatically.
73,
Evan, K9SQG
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:56 pm
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I just found out the the L-4B has the Harbach mod and the bleeder
resistors were removed to eliminate excessive heat.
Is there anything else I need to do to the power supply?
Thanks!
73 de
Bill
K9BUB
--- On Mon, 7/28/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 2:41 PM
I would think 20A would be fine unless the run is long, then I'd opt
for 30A. Be aware that pin arrangements for the plug and socket
change for the various ratings.
Even if the PS is working ok with the amp, I always replace the 5K
7wt resistor on the underside of the supply with a 5K equivalent, 20
watt rating. When the original resistor fails, it takes out the ALC
pot that also contains the standby switch; these haven't been
available for decades.
-----Original Message-----
From: Duane Calvin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 2:34 pm
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99. Works great.
73, Duane AC5AA
At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote:
Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to
arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is
running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service.
Thanks!
73 de
Bill
K9BUB
Duane Calvin, AC5AA
Austin, Texas
www.ac5aa.com
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