ok sounds good, thanks for the headsup. I found a really nice source for the tube data here: http://tubedata.milbert.com/sheets11.html
If anyone knows of or has a PDF with all the tubes in it please let me know where to find it. In the mean time I have downloaded the individuals from the above link. I need to do some voltage measurements in the morning, but for now looks like the OA2 is supposed to 'glow' if it is working correctly. So, I need to look for bad caps I guess. Anyone have info on a good CAP checker. Bob AD5VJ > -----Original Message----- > From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net > [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Garey Barrell > Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 10:10 PM > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Refurbishing a 'new to me' TR-3 > > Ron - > > The switches are / were silver plated. Partly because of a > very damaging article that is circulating, some attack these > switches with "silver cleaner", which, whether abrasive OR > chemical work by removing silver molecules. > > I have seen several otherwise excellent receivers destroyed > and scrapped due to this procedure, either by the silver > plating being removed or just by having a fixed contact > "sprung" by a Q-tip or other "tool" while cleaning the > "black" (silver sulfide, conductive) off of a perfectly good > switch. If you look carefully at the wiper of a good switch, > you'll see a bright line down the center where the fixed > contact has "wiped" through the soft black coating. > > A drop of DeoxiT D100L is all you need. > > /Rant off > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs <www.k4oah.com> > > > Ron wrote: > > It has been a while since I had my TR3, but I was fairly > sure that the band switches were silver plated. The black > "soot" is silver tarnish (still a great conductor). I think > the copper color would indicated you destroyed/removed the > thin silver plating. > > > > Is anyone on the list aware of the TR3 and know if it has > silver plating or just copper on the band switches? > > > > 73, > > Ron WD8SBB > > > > --- On Mon, 11/16/09, Brett > Forehand<brett_foreh...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > >> From: Brett Forehand<brett_foreh...@yahoo.com> > >> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Refurbishing a 'new to me' TR-3 > >> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net > >> Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 4:06 PM Hi Bob! Saw your > post here > >> and thought I'd respond. > >> I've been working on a C line twins set for a bit. > >> I checked out your website... that's a cool idea to do a step by > >> step on the refurb. I would start by getting some > compressed air and > >> blowing that dust out of your house. Some sites actually DO > >> recommend putting your rig in the dishwasher. That kind of scares > >> me, but I've seen plenty of posts here that swear by it. > >> Simple Green (diluted) works great for me on cleaning up > the grime. > >> I used DeOxit on the controls and switches. Be especially > careful of > >> the wafers, I am told they will swell with too much > contact cleaner. > >> I used medical type cotton swabs and sprayed the DeOxit on > them, then > >> cleaned the switches. You'll probably notice a lot of > black soot on > >> them at first, and then they will be a nice > >> shiny copper when done. > >> There are cap kits out there for your power supply, as well as the > >> rig itself. I recently purchased a re-cap kit from > hayseed hamfest. > >> Haven't gotten it installed yet, > >> though. > >> Great thing about this site is there is a LOT of knowledge > out there, > >> and folks are quick to respond with help. > >> Good luck with getting the old gal back on the air! > >> 73,Brett > > > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > _______________________________________________ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
