Hi Steve:
Slug rod and yoke follower can be removed completely by removing the
colil form and base from rear of frame and then is-assembling the lead
screw. Takes a little fiddling to get the rod then out of the frame but
it will fit.
Just for inspection, you can just remove the coil form off the back of
the frame.
Gary might have some more tricks but this has worked for me. The
several pcs of core material are sandwiched with a nut and well
varnished..never saw one damaged or cracked in perhaps a couple dozen
teardowns, but it could happen. Unless they are just loose, I doubt
this is doing what you describe. But, anything that might cause
mechanical movement in any direction, will cause a frequency shift.
Make sure the rear coil form cap with the square hole for the rod is
still firmly cemented in place. I always add a little Ambroid cement to
the glued parts since the original can get brittle and fail. THe back
rod guide is critical to stability of the rod.
Curt
KU8L
Steve Wedge wrote:
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:00:22 -0400
OK - this is starting to make a little more sense. If the ferrite is cracked
or loose, this sort of thing can happen, then, right?
What's the best way of extracting the slug from the coil form?
Thanks for all the help...
Steve, W1ES/4
From: Garey Barrell <k4...@mindspring.com>
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
Message-ID: <4e233f56.7010...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Steve -
The chrome rider bar and follower should be clean, with NO lubrication. Ensure that the spring is
pulling the follower FIRMLY against the bar.
Examine the slug closely for any cracks or loose segments.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
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